how often stain log home

[Summer]

Good afternoon, dear friends.
I need a collective advice. There is a new house of OSB. It is unpainted. The construction of the house began on December 2011. In winter, of course, people do not paint. Accordingly, it has been unpainted for the fourth month. Originally, white sticks started to darken in the bright spring sun. That is a cause for my concern and desire to start painting as soon as there is a stable temperature of the surrounding air. On the other hand, the inner voice tells me that the damp of logs, standing in winter (i.e. at sub-zero temperatures), was high enough for the immediate painting. How it will be better? To paint raw logs immediately, while they will not all dark? Or to dry for a month at zero temperature, then to treat with a Sagus for clarification, and then to paint?

[buldozer]

In the future (when it will be a good whether day and night), you can cover the frame by vapor permeable antiseptics. So, they do not have to plug up the log since it is raw and needed to be dried. If there is somewhere darkening (a mold or a fungus) you can beforehand bleach this place with special preservatives. Well, then wait for the frame to dry (I think it will be in the end of spring and summer) and reaches a moisture 20% or less, you can cover the finishing of your choice.

[bill]

The color is really amber (or straw as someone likes it). But that is! Just in winter the sun is not so intense. And relatively, there is a little moisture. But especially in spring and summer the process of turning brown will accelerate at times. Such examples abound. First, the beam becomes light gray, then it becomes almost black. In areas not covered by the sun and moisture, this is particularly noticeable. This is not a rot or mildew. Just a natural reaction of wood. If you've seen an old perennial unpainted log house, here this is it! If this process is running, then later, you will have to grind this log, or to bleach by a special composition. Both are worth the money (especially sanding). And if you paint now, you will be able to do without bleaching and polishing, because you have a log of a good quality and still light. If the roof with large overhangs and there is a drain, the frame will be OK. Go to the villages, look for the unpainted houses, which are more of half a century. But they are OK and not rotted. My friend bought such log house with a land and since he was going to build a new house, the old house was decided to disassemble and recycle. However, during the dismantling of the framework, it was found that the logs were in a perfect condition. He was so impressed by that discovery that he couldn’t recycle these logs. Now, he is going to build an utility structure. So, no one dispute that the grinding is good! But painfully it is so expensive! And if for the internal grinding we usually accept, then we are trying to save on the outside.

[expert]

A construction of a wooden house requires some time-consuming costs, even a whole year, until a frame is chopped while builder are engaged in its construction, while the roof is mounted, all time the walls and other structural elements of the wooden house are vulnerable to the negative environmental effects. There are various techniques and methods that will help preserve a natural state and a natural look of wood houses. This is a sanding of walls, which aims to remove various fungi, molds and other diseases from the surface of the tree, as well as a mechanical damage produced by loading and unloading and a transport of the framework. After polishing, dirt is removed from the wood, acquired during a transport, storage and assembly of the framework, which not only spoils an aesthetic appearance of the house, but can also lead to a further deterioration of logs. Sanding promotes better absorption of different antiseptic by the wood and is a good base for varnish or paint. Logs, planed timbers and peeled logs can be sanded. A sanded log is not distinguished in appearance from a fresh cut, it returns to the natural beauty, purchased a smooth surface, the color changes to a lighter ton. After a sanding work is completed, it is necessarily to process a surface of wood walls, a deep impregnation by antiseptics is required, special tools will provide a biological protection against environmental factors.

[Summer]

Is it worth waiting for the complete drying of a framework (with the risk of losing its color with all its consequences) and then to paint it later or to paint it immediately, while we can do it with a simple paint? As I understand you tend to the first option? I will clarify once again that the wall area of a framework is big enough - and then I will spend my time or money. Neither one, unfortunately, I do not have in abundance. You care about "yellowing" or "graying"? If the "yellowing", anything would not save from it, but only slightly delay the process. Even pine doors indoors, where the sun never goes become yellow over time. And from the "graying" preservatives will give a protection for a year (or even two years). And it is better to choose the color according to the age of darkening of pines, if a selected color was light or medium.

[bill]

About sanding of a "little" house you can read on this forum and there are many impressions from this process. A lot of them are negative. I've been intended to do that process myself, but having read the reviews I changed my mind. Or only the lower crowns. When I realize, I will need to climb a ridge, my enthusiasm disappears. Skills are necessary.

[baltazar]

After each grinding, the water absorption of the wood becomes "catastrophic”, as you wrote about it. Therefore, the access to the moisture was improved and it was harmful to the tree and no antiseptics could save it or only a kind of yachting varnish, but it will be not a wooden house, but plastic. Therefore, the best treatment is a hand tool, a plane (not electric, the effect is as sanding), also known as a scraper plane. In the Internet I have even seen pictures with experiments on a water penetrability of wood treated by different instruments. And the not electric plane was the best. So, any slanting rain and you have moisture in your logs, a snow melts in spring and the water freezes at night. Here you have a reduction in terms of operation, changing of a look and damage coverage.

[constructor]

An antiseptic VALTTI COLOR glazing for wood, a tikkurila which is absorbed into the wood and does not form a continuous film after the first coat. It protects the wood from weathering, slowing the effects of moisture, UV radiation from the sun, fungi, mold, mildew and blue. It is designed to handle logs, sawn and planed wood surfaces, as well as various kinds of wooden plates and pressure-impregnated wood on the outside of houses according to instructions. Conditions during processing. The surface must be dry, i.e. the moisture content must be less than 20%. During the processing and drying the air temperature must be above + 5 ° C and a relative humidity below 80%. Pre-treatment. Untreated surface: clean the surface from dirt and dust by the steel bristle brush. Covered with a mold surfaces wash with a composition called "Homeenpoysto" or "Teholes" according to instructions. To prime the surface at the earliest possible stage of construction with an antiseptic composition "Valtti-Pohyuste. I remember, I painted the house, by the yellow Aquatex. I painted in good faith, in several layers; thanks God the Aquatex was quite cheap. After 3 years, the north side of the house has retained original yellow color. But the south part become dark because of ultraviolet rays.