Insects are the timber worms.

[Summer]

The gassing with a phosphine has to be done at + 15C degrees in the street. Keep in mind that the house must be hermetically sealed and closed within 2 weeks after the chemical treatment.
I delayed this process till September, because I was sorry for losing two weeks of a country life.
Having learned from the employees of our copmany who treated my cottage, the sad facts about infection of our forests around Moscow.
The orders of company for sanitizing cottages from bugs increase. I, probably, caught bark beetles from the sub-floor boards. I admit that we could put a few rough boards.. Unfortunately, it was not possible to follow.
Beetles may come out, but the bark beetles don’t eat the wood? but their larvae.
And, they are all very tenacious.
As written in our topic, they are more tenacious than cockroaches and rats. So, we don’t destroy their with the impregnation.

[bill]

Two years ago, we put the log sauna. Last fall, the crew caulked, polished and processed it with the “penoteks”. In spring I found that one of the logs from the inside was eaten in many places (the holes were like from the drill). If anyone encountered a similar problem, tell me, please, the solutions. Thank you.

[baltazar]

Good afternoon!
Scary stuff you are telling.. When I remember my fighting with the bark beetle .... it makes me feel creepy all over. Ii my opinion you should treat the holes, there are also old-fashioned way ....We bought an unfinished house, a log cabin (it was built 7 years ago). After that, it turned out that the beetle-grinder were living there. I had never heard about it. After a long searching on the internet, I found one article where the restorer answered the questions about the beetle grinder, and, how to destroy it.
First, in May and June, you have to treat your house with the fluoride and the sodium, and, then, in the middle of June (when the beetle comes out to ther edge of a tree) you should treat logs with the antiseptic or the impregnating of turpentine, 5 parts of a wax, 5 parts of a paraffin wax and 3 parts of a creolin.

[constructor]

- As for me.. First: we processed the frame with a fluoride and a sodium. But, the question is: what should we do further? A gasoline and a turpentine are not very desirable, because they are very flammable, the frame is impregnated and becomes like a "match", and, secondly, a creolin like a karbofost is very harmful for the health. The antiseptics stay. After a long search on the Internet I focused on two. But the question is which one is better and which one is more effective? And is it real with these preservatives to kill the larvae and beetles? (I have to kill the larvae and this beetle!) ?

[constructor]

The first anticeptic is called "Woody healer" - "Anti-Bug", the second is called "Rogneda" “Anti-Bug".
There is another option to treat the frame with a mineral oil, saying it is effective. What do you think about it? Tell me, please! With suggestions like, such as the burning of framework, please, don’t write.
It’s necessary to kill the larvae, but, by what? Maybe there are more effective means..
Maybe someone encountered this problem in practice and effectively fought with it and can suggest something?
Postscript to inject with a syringe into each hole is not very realistic. Thank you.

[bill]

I had a similar problem, just on a smaller scale (the balcony is trimed by paneling and the beetke appeared in the window frames). On the Internet I, accidentally, read an advice that the bug fears a sharp knock on the places where he "lives". He took a wooden hammer and create to him and to my neighbors a merry life)). pah! from last year there are no more beetles and new holes.
I don’t know why it helped. In the Internet wrote that the bark beetle is afraid of shake, and the crumble kills the larvae.

[expert]

Ladies and gentlemen! Some of you were lucky and the beetles found nice places for breeding and feeding. Don’t waste time and money - it can’t be exterminated!. The larvae are very tenacious. Any promises of vendors are just to sell goods. If you pour the larva with this product, which is in a can, the larva, certainly, would die. Goods are poisonous. But no company can guarantee that you will be able to deliver the poison to its “place" in the interior of a tree and in the desired concentration.
There were the fumigation specialized firms, but, now I don’t know. The fumigation with a special poisonous gas kills the larvae (and all living things). But does not protect against recontamination!
It is known from experience that they don’t like to lay the larvae in the treated smooth surface. Spend time and money on finishing, cleaning and burning the bark and all traces of its fibers on wood, cleaning infected or just dead wood nearby. The cortex on the boards, etc., on the old trees shouldn’t be there.
Well, check up who's not too late that the boards hasn’t any round or oval holes. Don’t store the unbarked wood - just clean and burn.
Remember, to kill the larva can only personally strangle each hole – a chemistry doen’t get it, and in any case the caterpillar pupates and waits for the beter time - maybe a few years.
Pouring logs and planks, should be done by a restorer who didn’t receive the education on related subjects such as the entomology. There are many of them, than you can imagine..ohhh

[Summer]

I found such firm in Moscow.
The fumigation with a phosphine for my house we made on September.
Last year, the beetles came out on the walls of my 2-year-old log home in early April.
Now, they are not visible.
What will happen next, let's see, maybe, I will make a refumigation.

[expert]

Can you imagine how much writing in it. But there is no more resistant creature to adverse conditions, than the larva of a bark beetle. This is not a mother-in-law, it is not afraid of a hammer))
But, they are attracted to the dried wood less than to the freshly cut logs. The bark beetles, which leave large holes of 5-10 mm, like the crust, its remains and at the same time they eat up the outer layers of a soft wood. The beetles come out to mate, to produce offspring and to die for a month. They don’t’ eat. The larvae who eat inside for 2 or 4 years (each population). The beetles in summer, somewhere between April and July (various), you can try to poison. Don’t give them the time to breed. Well, already been said about the smooth finish.
See about the smooth process. The holes can be cloged with the sawdust and rags with a glue or a wax.
For the question of "internal resources" of the enemy:
on their way to flight, bugs gnaw thick metal sheets of 3-4mm and the concrete walls enclosing their way to a “freedom”.

[constructor]

Well, that's going too far, about the concrete walls, metal sheets. Read the article in the internet "Trap for the bark beetle” published in a magazine called “USER. ALL FOR THE BUILDING AND CONSTRUCTION" № 12'2000". And, the larvae actually gnaw everything, but they don’t come out, and they pupate close to the outside because the bark beetles can easy do it.
- The case described is not daily. Are you crazy, man? to beat with hammers your home??. And, flooding logs with different liquids.
But in general ... Who is reading this forum and the magazine with the telling name “USER", should consult with a professional.To each according to his needs
But if you really want like “ Malakhov +”, so go on!.

[expert]

Again, I repeat, the larva feeds on wood. It grows and swells in it and our sufferings. The bark beetle doesn’t eat - it gnaws at the surface to the light, heat, water, and the brief joys of a family life.
A hygiene and a sanitation! described above.
Or maintain a domestic producer of various impregnations for beetles and the publishers of the magazine “USER”- your informed choice

[Summer]

So, do you think that is useless to fight with them, and it’s better to left alone? Let them alive!??.
And, did you face such problem?
The observation of a good hygiene of the wood, as I understand, should be done by the previouse owners, and, currently, the hygiene doesn’t help. I understand that the problem is not only for us, but for the whole village. After the roud of many houses, I found these beetles everywhere. Once again, I repeat that to burn the house is not suitable, we should something to do. The method as you cited, like “Malakhov+” or a specialist consultation. Somehow, but only effectively.
If you know, oh.. tell me, please?

[buldozer]

Incidentally, I was also told to treat the frame with the liquid petrolatun. They don’t like it and they don’ t come out from inside. What do you think about?? I’d like to hear your opinion?

[expert]

By the way, the main flight of the bark beetle occurs in May and June. Treat your house with something, you want - it will come out. It’s important to spray with a poison during tha mass departure of beetles in order they not to lay eggs.
The last solution is for waxing of the surface, i.e for a smooth handling. The holes and cracks shuold be filled.i.e First, you should fill their holes with rags and sawdust with a glue. The work is severe. It doen’t relate to presepvation.
Don’t you find it funny? about the vaseline? Is it effective against what? And, then, use a baby powder – the beetles will sneeze, and the sticky oil. They will take offence and will go. In the mass infection the only way is a simultaneous mass fumigation, the mass destruction of dead trees and a bark. The rules must be complied before and after the fumigation, and all at once. The previous homeowners, as I understand, do nothing for your. Or.. to try canceling or returning the money for the home. You shouldn’t burn the house, but the bark, dead branches, thick logs if stored. In nature, the bark beetle lives in old, dead and diseased trees. So, at this scale you would have to burn a lot.
The problem is akin to a natural disaster, plus the inertia of local residents, accustomed to the beetles. A simple and a straightforward solution doesn’t exist like a "Senezh".
But I'm just sorry that you will treat with the oil, simply, because someone somewhere said that without any explanation.
I would like to see the holes with an attached ruler. There are many bugs of different species and breeds, who eat the wood. The size is important too. And, then talk turns abstract, but you want concrete and simple results.
The problem is akin to a natural disaster, plus the inertia of local residents, accustomed to the beetles. A simple and a straightforward solution doesn’t exist like a "Senezh".
But I'm just sorry that you will treat with the oil, simply, because someone somewhere said that without any explanation.
I suggest that I know. But, you are trying to find a simple, fast and effective solution with a guaranteed long-term solution that doesn’t exist for this problem. That’s why stop reading a rubbish, applying to your situation. Once again I say that the fumigation should help. But it will not prevent new larvae from the bark beetles (from neighbors, from nearby infected planting. The bark beetles lay their larvae frequently in the loose, damaged wood. So, the smooth surface of logs, boards, a lack of nearby dead bark and twigs.

[Summer]

So, as I realized that my first action is to fill all the holes and cracks, to paint over with the a glue and a sawdust, but if you do it with a foam? They wil eat?
We filled some fissures with a foam, for fun, I picked it off and there were not any new holes. Then, burn the infected trees, boards, etc. This is a problem to make a fumigation in the province where no one heard it about and no one can do this process. This is real in Moscow and Moskow region. In the villages, peopl don't even know about the bark beetles and live with them for many years. All the houses are skewed, eaten by the bugs.
So, you know, the fumigation is eliminated.
At the expense of the bark beetle itself, I have never seen it, although I always looked it up on the window logs, etc. The holes he left is no more than 2 mm.
Even, tell me the procedure, please, of my actions and details. And, then I can’t understand your answers to me.
And, even if the frame is wrapped with a glass wool and a siding, the bark beetles will still eat it.
And you should treat the logs with something, with a varnish, etc. I'm not an expert to do it.
And as concerns the fumigation it’s unreal you know!
Thank you very much for your answers.

[constructor]

Leave the quotation for what you answer. The bark beetles exist of several species, In a nature they live in different climatic zones. We can find the northern breeds, they are larger. The case is not about your village is described,but there is an explanation for what.
The bark beetle is often called the capricorn beetle, a frequent pest on unbarked wood and in wooden houses, It’s a large beetle,with likes eating the bark and nearby leaves. In general you can escape from him by quickly removing the crust. But it may remain, if the tree is soft and roting with a blue cheese. We have to consider that people felled all beetle pests in one pile.
But the main thing for precautions is a bark. All bugs like dead, diseased trees, weakened wood (in nature). Especially if you say that around the house the area is also infected, so they live not only in houses. The forest nearby is infected for sure, or other planting. I'm not an entomologist, but I’m speaking specifically about the general safety precautions. Besides, you don’t give any picks or the size and a number of holes.

In the tree, you will not destroy any larvae with chemicals, they are also not afraid of a hammer and a vaseline. I think you have not to examine me accoding to the magazine “USER”. You are none the better for it!. If you are trying to prove myself that I’m foolishly chattering, so, god's sake. All the information required is available in posts, even the reference to the fumigation. The tools such as “Antibug” are always on offer.

[baltazar]

Do not reject outright, the opportunity to fumigate your house. As I understood from the communication with the specialists of the firm called "SanGig", they attend the objects not only in Moscow region.
I know exactly, that they treated the home of Tver region.
Maybe, they will come to Kaluga region too.
Keep in mind that gassing with phosphine is carried out in a warm season, when the outdoor temperature is above 15 C degrees.

[expert]

The company makes the calculation of cost for the work, based on the square area of your home. The experts go to the object 2 times. First, they make a fumigation of your house.
And, then, a week later they make a degassing.
A treatment of my home (8x 08.05 plus an attic) costes about 25 000 rubles. My cottage is about 120 km from Moscow.
Of course, It’s not cheap, but the more effective mean of destroying bark beetles than the aeration with a phosphine, doesn’t exist.
- About the phosphine I also examined the issue.
1. This is a particularly hazardous chemicals!
2. The house should be all (!) for a week tightly covered with a foil (along with a roof!), otherwise, what is the use? Evrething will go into the atmosphere.
3. If, god forbid, someone will climb up this week into the house, the owner of the house will be in prison.
4. There is a strong oxidation of the copper wiring and contacts. IMUO it’s a dangerous thing. And no guarantees!!.
I have the treatment of home in connection with a appearance of bugs this year. I make the fumigation that so-called "A fog generator". Initially, the firm was called, but, then, I bought the unit and treated myself. There are no insects inside or outside the home. The fog gets into any cracks.
The poison is actually a very toxic to humans.

[expert]

- No secrets.
The unit is filled with a gasoline, the principle of the engine with the propeller, hung on the back, it is filled with petrol and oil, and in another compartment - a common insect repellent, purchased in the industrial packaging. If you buy vials in gardening stores – it’s cheaper to sell the house.

And you’re going like “Karlosson” on a site. I treat a living area only the outside. Two years and a ”normal flight”.
I can mail you addresses.
p/s By the way, That’s cool that it isn‘t act on bees.

[bill]

Tell me, please, what is this machine called, how much it costs, where I can buy it and which poison I should use. By the way did you also have a bark beetle, or something else?.