how to frame house walls

[bill]

Welcome, dear friends. We start preparing for a demo unit wall from cement wood on which we can see in a real life the various options of the exterior of building. It remains to decide what kinds of options of external finishes were suited. I will express my opinion below, and ask you to give yours. Just the size of the wall is limited, so all the options will not suit. It is necessary to select the most good.
Wall options (finishing only on one side):
Length - 3.2-3.5 m
Height - 1.2-1.4.
Width - 0.3 m (i.e, one block from arbolit)
On the wall you have to install a laying net as it will be seen how it works and how it is insulated. Also, on the wall there will be a small window to show how the bridge is arranged over the windows. So, I think to finish the basement with tiles or a plaster for each option.
The external finish to the wall, you should arrange for at least 4 versions, with two of them - the exterior design by a facade plaster. I want to show a facade system by layers to see everything. My options are so:
1) The facade system on materials of a higher price segment: Cerezit, Baumit, Kreyzel, Baukolor etc. Layers will be according to the manufacturer requirements.
2) I need the most economical option based on a conventional cement-sand or cement-lime plaster with addition of a perlite. A finish with the minimum required number of layers and therefore a work may have any proven ways to save in such cases, for example when the paint is mixed with filler, or a PVA glue is added, etc. A cement wood has a good permeability to water vapor, on average, our units will be 0.12 - 0.17 mg / (m • h • Pa) and it should be considered.
3) Siding on a crate from bars.
4) A ventilated facade on colored fiber cement slabs - also on a crate of bars.
Or remove the paragraph number 3, and instead it, add a facade render system from the average price range: Knauf, Atlas.
I wish that were reflected all price options, especially now there is a crisis. So, speak with me, and if there are those who have done something like that, I am ready to listen to your piece of advice or just to chat. Best regards,

[baltazar]

How to explain a plaster of the higher price segment from the material from the average price level? Perhaps, it will be more interesting to replace the item for the fibro siding or ceramic tiles? I'd throw the vinyl siding (manufacturers have detailed descriptions and recommendations on various walls), replacing some of the average price level - an artificial stone? And add facing bricks.
And of course, interesting to look at the clutch components, jumpers, laying nets, which have a recommendation for a solution for masonry (the ratio of cement, sand, water), well, everything in general that a person after visiting this exhibition wall could safely say - "I know how to build a house of cement wood and make its exterior and interior, and I can control the building team.
A practice has shown that the presence of houses built and members, ready to share with other information on the construction from cement wood, particularly bother with the wall is not necessary. So, at this point we just made a wall of insulated cement wood to see how it looks alive. With all kinds of other units are also in the office. All possible nodes on the wall showed unrealistic because of the limitations of the office. Flooring - wooden joists and we were forbidden to load them intensive, and the wall was made not so big. The wish to plaster a part of wall and lay tiles is not lost.

[bill]

Decorating the walls of the wooden house in 2 layers. I ask a piece of advice for the wall design of a log house. Masters advise to make in two layers - 1 layer GVL10mm, 2 layer -GKL 9 mm a frame of profiled beams pp60 27 on hangers to the walls, a space from the wall 5 cm. My question is so. If it will be a heavy construction on the 2nd floor joists (100 x 150 span 4 metro), a wall height is 3m. I can do in a single layer by GKL 12 mm in the future under wallpapering or are there any options. In the wall I will lay the ecowool in order to hang on a wall TV. Walls under the wallpapers. A warm house. GKL and GVL are planned to hang heavy objects. Can I put two sheets of gypsum fiber board and how do they fit wallpapers? And I want to clarify if any tape to be on the profile is glued for soundproofing, I lay under the lower guide a foamterm and under the mount to the wall, too.
GVL (a gypsum plasterboard) and a gypsum drywall are different by their characteristics and to connect them together and fasten to the profiles can lead to cracks. If the walls are not planned to hang something heavy, one layer is enough. Principally for heating buildings a plasterboard or a gypsum fiber board are equal. If you hang a TV-set and heavy objects, the first layer should be made of plywood (10-12mm) and not from GVL, a second layer of plasterboard.
There is a special tape called KNAUF for a profile. Just the difference by the price 9.5 mm and 12mm is not significant.
I would put 12 mm if it is possible. Sheets of GVL (a gypsum plasterboard) really in some extent are fragile. GVL sheet must bear alone and not to put on the corners of the sheet. And for the work along there is a small-format 1.2 x 1.5 m.

[Summer]

Please, give me a piece of advice. What is the best option of finishing the ceiling, walls and floor? We are advised to decorate with a plasterboard, it is cheaper than a plaster and you shouldn’t wait since it get dried up. Is it an eco-friendly option?
And for the floor, in any case, we will have to make a coupler, but what kind of? We will insulate by a polystyrene, and on the top we are going to use a stoneware.
And another question, what will be the first place? Windows, and then the interior work?

[constructor]

A Gypsum board is a mouse paradise, a plaster is better.
Naturally, firstly, windows. A plasterboard (GK) and a plaster have the same price, but the plaster is better to use. The application of GK is justified only in the case of highly curved walls that require a large pounce solution, which results in an increased consumption of material + workers may request an additional payment. Not beat so tight and glue on a special adhesive.

[baltazar]

Thank you all for your support! It seems I am persuaded. Can I ask about plaster? Which is better? How much time will it dry, for how long can stretch that process? I want to make two rooms quickly, that in June there was possible to live and to supervise the construction. Here I found a cement-lime sand mix for plastering Ecomur. Cement-lime plasters Sertoldit. In addition, I recommend to purchase a cement plaster Tertamyur - 404, a perlite plaster Tertamur perlite - 408 and a gypsum-based plaster Gipsomyur - 455. It seems there is a lot of them... I have a house with such a large brick. As for the plaster: book on RBU a ready mortar, add the cement ¼, then plasterer. If you have a lot of money, you can try your option as Rotband.

[bill]

Many thanks for the tip. We haven’t it in our mind. How much we need for the room 4 x 4. Used for the walls and a ceiling? This is what to look for? A solution is cement-lime, the brand M-100 is a lime solution, the brand M-1304. Do you advise them for the exterior or interior use? We will plaster in the wall on the outside the next year. How much plaster do we need for approximately 100 m2? A perlite and a cement. There are more reasons to buy the perlite and mix it with the cement. It will be interesting to see how much of what should be for example for the area 100 m2. How much material?

[constructor]

If you order a ready solution, the confusion that still will be. Stones in the solution, sand with lump to percolate through the screen, even that is not a guarantee of a good quality. We are ready to suffer, and then bought separately a lime (soaked and strained), add a dry mortar and a cement. The best thing is Rotband, it dries quickly and lays flat. Let, approximately 10 kg per 1 m2 (in their instructions 8 or something like that).
I have a room of 64 m2 surface of walls and a ceiling.
64 x 10 = 640 kg - 22 bags of Rotband x 270 rubles = 5940 rubles.
Consider with a lime solution.
1 m3 - 2850 rubles
64 m2 x 0.02 m = 1.28 – a half of cube
2850 x 1.5 = 4275 rubles, but we still need some cement. How much? Even without cement there is the difference approximately two thousand and it is worth to replace Rotband on a lime, it is not clear, what is the quality of solution? I'm a little confused. Who's to say that it will be much cheaper to order? In spite of your advice, I am going to sheath the walls inside of GVL, not in a building! Could you tell me where it is all painted / the installation of profiles, an insulation, and then as they say all the first time. I have a question on the subject, mainly with regards to ceilings. Tell me, please, that's actually a rule with 1m length to an acceptable level to equalize differences between slabs? Or just treat with plasters? I counted in the case of plaster and it is more expensive because of a large flow of mixtures. And the work is also in proportion. Differences between tiles are different 0.5 or more than 1 cm. Give me a piece of advice what to do.
PS. a stretch ceiling is not a good option.

[expert]

GKL (a gypsum plasterboard) vs PLASTER
(trimming of walls)
A terrible fashion for GKL (a gypsum plasterboard) and GVL mounted everywhere. That’s cool. Much cooler than a scoop plaster. I want everywhere. But why you do not like a plaster? Not that is sold in the store, but packaged in bags of 20-30 kg and costs more than a cement bag. And for the common - one part of cement + a lime for plasticity + 3 parts of sand (well, this is so suspended). Is not clear. So, let's look at the main aspects of a heavy plaster work and compare them with a plasterboard trade.
Technology.
Someone thinks GKL installed faster than plastered stucco. I objected. Plaster can be no less lightning than to make a fiber board. For example, high-quality plaster walls 100 m2 by 135.72 person / hour. The same amount of a fiber board turns slightly faster - 128.85 per person / hour, only for 5.3% faster (data on employment and material from Grandsmeta, from federal limit quotations). And here is the big disadvantage of plaster, which is not much liked by professional builders, but more or less painlessly for other people . Drying. While the plaster dries and becomes absolutely fair, you can forgot about further processes such as putties and paint. In principle, a private trader counting his money can wait for a week, which means a time for his house, right? As for the salary in Ulan-Ude, the work costs from 120 to 250 rubles/m2 depending on skills and experience - that much a variation as the speaker in favor of a particular material.
The cost of materials.
Well, here a plaster rules. Judge by yourself:
GKL:
1. Fasteners for drywall: plastic dowels - 190 pcs. (190 rubles)
2. Fasteners for a drywall: pointed metal screws 3,5 x 9, 5 – 50 pcs. (10 rubles),
3. Fasteners for a drywall: drywall metal screws 3,5 x35 - 140 (56 rubles)
4. Sheets of plasterboard standard, Knauf, a thickness of 8-10 mm - 105 m2 (8,400 rubles)
5. Accessories for a drywall: a profile guide 50 x 4 0x 0, 55 - 70 m (1170 rubles).
6. Accessories for a drywall: a ceiling profile 60 x 27 - 200 m (4,700 rubles)
7. Accessories for a drywall: a hanger straight 60 x 27 - 70 pcs (350 rubles).
Total - 14 876 m2 or 149 rubles/100 rubles/m2,
A plaster (for the layer 2 cm):
1. Prepared finishing solutions hard, cement-lime 1:1:6 - 2.5 m3
or
1. a building lime, grade 1 - 350 kg (2450 rubles),
2. Slag cement for a general construction and a special grade 300 - 510 kg (2346 rubles),
3. Sand for a construction work for a plaster finishing coat - 2.75 m3 (2400 rubles).
Total - 7,196 m2 or 72 rubles/100 rubles/m2.

[expert]

As we can see, the materials for the plaster are 2.07 times cheaper than for the GKL (a gypsum plasterboard). Unfortunately, the cost of materials for the plaster is highly dependent on the curvature of walls. But there is one trick, resorted to all my building friends justifying the need to align plasterboard walls. Dialogues are as follows (with intonations from the film about the Bukins).
GKL(a gypsum plasterboard): you walls are curve. A deviation from the vertical 1.5 - 2-3 cm.
A customer: Oh, what to do?
GKL(a gypsum plasterboard): You can plaster, but the thickness of the layer will be the same. It must be so, 2 cm, plus your 1.5 - 2 cm to level 4 - 5 cm. Well, what will be the layer; it will fall down by its weight. The grid will be needed, you have to plaster two to three times. Better drywall and ready.
A customer: I love you, do what you want. Overall – ha- ha three times. The thickness of the plaster is taken 2 cm on average. In fact (the plaster) will have a different thickness. If the bulge on the wall – the plaster is reduced almost to nothing to 3-4 mm. If, on the contrary, the thickness of the gallop increased to 3.5 cm On average, out of 2 cm around the wall . In my experience, no customer did it. So, the wall with deviations of up to 2 cm can safely close the plaster and not worry about the increase in the thickness of the layer.
Aesthetics.
Such nonsense! The plaster can be made exactly flat like as the lake surface in a calm weather. The drywall can be mounted mimicking by the increased washboard. Everything depends on the diligence.
Operation.
Plaster is rapidly forging ahead, and at the start of the FKL. A good plaster is reliable and strong, does not break through with a sharp spots, easy to repair in certain places.
GKL (a gypsum plasterboard)is much weak than a plaster, to mount the furniture we have to make differently, it hides the area of the room, in theory (I have not seen that) is an excellent habitat for all sorts of bugs, spiders, mice and rats.
Summary:
In case of deviations walls 2 - 2.5 cm can be safely applied the plaster.
With deviations of up to 4 cm, there is a reason to think about.
At very uneven walls, you can still make the plaster - if the operating considerations outweigh. The drywall is better used in the case of frame houses. Or when it is rainy. Or an excessive moisture threatens something ...
P/S. My living area of 56 m2 with walls 27 m 2, the plasterer has made it for three days, working for 6-7 hours. Plasterers were Soviet-made - two healthy aunty under fifty dollars.

[buldozer]

One of the advantages of drywall - you can hide your communication wires.
Why only use a plaster or a plasterboard?
As for me I plan to plaster the walls.
Bearing walls from foam blocks - to plaster, plasterboard partitions, to hide communication also with a GKL(a gypsum plasterboard).
Use one or other way to be reasonable.
A drywall has another plus that it's easier to work by not profs. In addition, there is no need to putty (for wallpapers). Thus, if you want to repair by your own hands with the GKL(a gypsum plasterboard) on a glue this is the simplest way, and not as expensive as the frame.

[bill]

I think to make the trimming (next summer) the interior walls. I thought about both options proposed. And, as for the independent work with a drywall, it's not quite easy (as I think). I even bought a book "Working with the GKL(a gypsum plasterboard)". And at the edge of the sheet is different, putty joints, , too, need to properly pre-taped...
Two of my friends have many cracks in their homes on the surface. Moreover, some of them fastened the drywall by themselves; others hired the team for the construction. A plaster will not crack? And then the house "shrinks", the people say so. I'm thinking right now on the market (or, perhaps, a long time already, and I just have not seen) there are beacons for plaster. From the same material as the guiding profiles for a plasterboard. They cost about 30/piece. Their length is 2.5 - 3 m. They can be mounted on a wall as well as directing the GKL(a gypsum plasterboard) (a hardware made simply with plug-screws) per step 1 - 1.5 m. This device performs 6 mm from the wall. Then, after the installation and testing, it can be plastered. I made it by eye, than to make amends by the trowel. I walked through the band (to plaster through the bands is more convenient. Far evaded the room, the first bands have already grabbed that would plaster between them without damaging them without being afraid that a raw plaster chunks fall off.) Throwing the 2nd lane, back to the first one. Again I sprinkled the solution and took 1-1.5 meter. I attached to the wall, resting the tips of beacons and dragged the entire solution up to the ceiling. And so a few times, ensuring a complete flatness of the strip with lighthouses. You can plaster separate sinks later. I think using such beacons, this job can be successfully made by any person looking forward the first time for successfully mount the GKL (a gypsum plasterboard). About wallpapers. In the case of light wallpapers GKL often shines bad places (even thick fleece wallpapers). And so, you should plaster completely. I wonder if you can not just paint it with a water emulsion paint instead of the global adhesives and glue wallpapers on the paint?
Of course, if a square meter of plaster so, it will exfoliate and fall off. But I mean that the plaster became so thin in some spots. And in the case of brick walls, the area of convex is usually small and alternates with "holes".
PS. I also remembered another plus of plaster. If you need a small amount, oh, well, to plaster the entry hall or so repair a little, then you can deliver the materials by any machine with a boot. A couple of bags of sand (we have it a lot in Ulan-Ude and then you haven’t buy it. For example, there is a lot of sand, in my basement. I know what to do with it), one cement bag, a ready-lime, packaged in plastic bags. As for the GKL(a gypsum plasterboard)? For one sheet I need to hire microns.

[expert]

If you have a really small amount, we shouldn’t bother and can apply ready solutions.
Although, when we needed a small piece of plaster board, we cut straight on the market and stuffed in the van, but these are personal troubles. Painfully, I didn’t want to dawdle with the solution. Though I do not know how to plaster walls and ceilings I made enough, I am going to plaster my walls. The logic is as follows. One wall will be bad (worst-first), the other three walls I will do better, than I will go back to the first wall and make it flat. For 100 cubic of solution:
1. A building lime, 1st grade - 14 tons,
2. A cement for general and special construction 300 - 20.4 tons
3. A sand for construction work for plaster finishing coatings - 110 m3.
4. The water - 66 m3. A drywall is better than a plaster in terms of construction. Since it is easier to work.
Communications can be removed. I made so.

[markM]

If you can get an EV in there, then nothings safe. With targetting how it is, Im not sure if you can put an EV "under" a stone foundationed house, but if possible then that explains it, and it stops being a bug.