log home lighting ideas

[baltazar]

A year ago, I put a LED bulb in a children's room, which blinked (changed color), I accidentally bought it for 250 rubles. There is a desire to try to change the bulb for a white LED bulb I saw it in the shops. It costs really high, but we have also significant savings on electricity.

[bill]

LEDs, at least the ones that are now on sale in shops will not provide a normal lighting. And the range is not very suitable for the eyes. For the local, decorative highlights it's great. For general lighting, I have already chosen the option with the fluorescent lamps with a conventional socket. Those which have a "yellow light," 2700K. I have two identical chandeliers hanging in the room (long and narrow). When I changed 60 W for 15W Compak, I did not notice a difference nor in strength nor a spectrum. And savings for 12 bulbs (it's only in one room) - consider for yourself ...Your eyes will be tired of LED lamps or of energy-efficient bulbs, regardless of the spectrum because they blink, but the light bulb have this drawback because they are slow to change, and when passing through a zero, a tungsten spiral does not have time to go out. The high-power LEDs with emission of 3600 Kelvin will cost the unreal money. Why just invent something if there are good and cheap energy saving bulbs? That's why the energy saving lamps light from 3600 Kelvin (the temperature of a solar light) and lower (yellowness), which is the best spectrum for the human eye.

[Summer]

The problem of blinking has been urgent for old fluorescent lamps with the electromagnetic ballast. Those were really blinking with a frequency of alternating current (50 Hz). They hooted at work. Modern compact fluorescent lamps use electronic ballasts, there is no problem of blinking. The current is converted to an average of 50 kHz; the persistence of phosphor is not worse than a tungsten coil with such frequency.
By the way there is a good result in color rendering and comfort that obtained by combining different light color temperatures (2700 + 4200), for example, in a chandelier.

[baltazar]

A frequency of blinking have never interfered me, it can be dangerous at work (a stroboscopic effect), but not at home.
I do not like CFLs because of a value for money, due to difficulties with the dimer interface of electronic ballasts, for example, or any feedback. CFLs because of a linearity spectrum create terrible effects with color when the skin of an old man looks green with blue or purple spots.
But in general, a light as a lamp, tastes differ.
The reason for the darkening around the cathode bulbs is the destruction of emissive cathode protective layer under the influence of heavy ion bombardment of a hot cathode. The layer is gradually destroyed, but the environment is just an inert gas protection and not an oxidizer.
IMHO, a home comfort is still more important, so with the exception of decorative things, I love as a primary light source I love the chandelier or the lights with halogen bulbs.
Halogen bulbs because they are more durable than ordinary incandescent bulbs. In the CFL a mixture of argon and neon is used. And the article is replete with inaccuracies.

[buldozer]

Energy-saving lamps are fluorescent bulbs which include a mercury. Alas. In the linear (tubular) bulbs there is much more mercury (about 30 mg) than in the compact bulbs (most often used in the home) - 3-5 mg. For comparison in the household thermometer (a thermometer) there are 2 grams!
2. There are bulbs (made in Europe), where a mercury is bound. You can’t say that it would solve the problem, but the technologies modify and the amount of mercury in bulbs is reduced. The main problem for Russia is not a mercury itself, but the absence of an actual admission system of blown bulbs from the people. P.S. I do not agree with the term "The European lamps" everything is now made in China, often there are several brands at one factory. I have the bulbs from the Russian brand that are based on the amalgam. For quality, reliability, light characteristics I have less claims than for the "Europeans", which I had an experience.

[constructor]

"Semiconductor bulbs Cree ® XLampTMXR-E7090 are the brightest crystals in the world of power LEDs based on InGaN structures on a SiC substrate with a luminous flux up to 100 lm at 350 mA". A manufacturer cree is undoubtedly one of the leaders, but a lamp with three LEDs of a total power 3 W and a luminous flux of 140lm costs 450 rubles and with one 3W LED and a light flux 120lm cost 900 rubles. I'm talking about lighting. The LED lighting is really expensive and it has to be considered in the long term. i.e. consider the economic feasibility of electricity savings. A claimed LED battery is 50-100 thousand hours, against 5.2 thousand in other lamps. i.e. LEDs have a definite plus. they are durable, the second less obvious advantage is an efficiency and a great minus is a price. With the cheap Russian electricity a payback period of LEDs compares with the term of their service. i.e the main obstacle to use of LEDs for the lighting is their high price. Although there are quite inexpensive LEDs, a type MR-16, which can be placed in conventional halogen lamps. Because the lack of available LEDs for general lighting is also a problem at the moment.

[Summer]

At the moment we only use LEDs for our two-level ceilings, cornices and a podium i.e. only for decorative lighting. Street lanterns are also popular especially with solar panels only as a decorative lighting. In the house there is not much use, really well as an emergency, as a garland or lights to decorate the children’s room for the sky but as the lights we do not use it because of the desired effect. During the weekend we made an autonomous LED lighting. The lightning of the whole house costs about 3000 rubles for the LEDs and 2000 rubles for a solar battery 5 W. + an old battery. We don’t expect the electricity in the country in our future. So, now we have a normal lightning and it consumes 35 W (for a 2-storied house 5 * 4 it is quite enough). For 5000 rubles we have a completely independent illumination of the entire house.

[baltazar]

All fixtures consume 35 Watts. In fact, one cloudy day is not critical, even if the entire week will be cloudy (in this case the battery will give up 30%), 70 hours at 1.5 W or 100 W/h. That's enough for three hours of continuous work. I will not switch on for a long time, so, 3 days for 2 hours (the most unfavorable period). Because a battery capacity is 55 A / h or about 600 W / h, a fully charged battery will last up to 18 hours of continuous lighting without a charge. In fact, today I brought a second battery, plus I found another battery 40 A / h, so, now, it will be definitely a fully autonomous system.
Also, I plan to include occasionally a gas generator for electric tool if a need arises, I will charge the batteries, but I think that this will not be necessary ...

[bill]

Well, to discharge 2 a / m of a battery with a periodic load 35W (a peak) is unlikely. You need to include all the coverage more than a day... And under a normal consumption (3-4 hours a day in the summer is enough, and probably at the same time you don’t need to switch on everything), and with a normal daily recharging batteries should be always in a "good shape" ... This is my first experience of that lightning and in theory it should work. A solar panel has an output voltage about 16-17 volts (I measured), and they are created specifically for the "Designed for charging a car battery in the field or during a long-term parking". A description of the manufacturer ...

[expert]

In practice, there is a significant decrease of a lumen in lamps DNaZ, DNaT during their operation. A reduction of luminous flux reaches 40-60% of the performance of a new lamp. And the greatest rate of the flux decrease is observed the first 100-200 hours of a lamp life, i.e. during the first month of work. Based on this particular work of DNaT and DNaZ lamps in various sources is recommended to make their replacement before their failing in 4-6 months (according to various sources). i.e. the real life of these lamps is defined by 4-6 months. One of the main factors influencing the lumen decline of DNaT, DNaZ lamps and reducing their service life is the moment of power or a short-term power failure, because when there is a voltage there is a momentary increasing of current, breaking the bulb elements. With every switching on there is a lamp aging, due to the increased dispersion of the electrode material by inrush currents that occur when establishing a discharge, which is associated with the transition processes in the lamp burner. As a result of these factors, the electrical parameters of the lamp are beyond the capabilities of ballasts and the lamp stops working. Note that the load on the power is increased more than two times.

[Summer]

Tell me please, I want to make a spotlight in the house. If it was not a limit for kilowatts, the problem would not be, as there are few kilowatts, then I am thinking about LED lighting.
I am looking up the Internet it is something difficult with it. I understood that it was afraid of a voltage jump i.e. I need to put some special constant-voltage units for these bulbs, or I can use a common regulator for the entire house? Could you tell me how much the LED light for 1 m2 is more expensive than a halogen light, except the lamps themselves?

[constructor]

So, in my personal opinion, to replace a fluorescent lamp 30 W for the aquarium lighting, I should have a minimum of 4 LEDs. 4 x 150 rubles = 600 rubles for a dubious light spectrum. I enjoy soldering, i.e. a controller will cost about 200 rubles, not 1200. Only about 800 rubles for the doubtful save of 10 watts power.
That we get a narrow spectrum, an uncertain plant growth, a high price, meager savings, an uneven illumination and sharp shadows. I'm not saying that the LEDs are bad, but their fate at this stage is an emergency lighting, which can replace a candle. And light diodes for 5 rubles with a resistance for 2 rubles, bolted to the base and sold for 150 rubles. as an alternative lamp are too expensive ...

[bill]

I have a couple questions. We have a country house, solar panels and batteries and their life span are 10 years. The question is in order not to save on bulbs but to save on the energy consumption what will you suggest?
Consider these options:
1) LEDs for a corridor, a bathroom, a toilet, a hall, table lamps are directly to the battery. (By the way are there advantages?)
Energy-saving lamps in the bedrooms, a kitchen and a hall.
2) LEDs are everywhere but how? Is it possible?
3) The most important is the question of performance I posted a topic about a low-voltage wiring in the house and a direct current (DC). There are some losses. Are they so critical for LED lamps? How to calculate a cross section of a copper wire for the LED lamp with the switches etc. i.e. with the footage that was not a big toll on the energy delivery from the battery to the bulb. I understand this the problem is a resistance of a wire? Thus we lose the energy in cross-section, the bigger it is, the less energy is lost? What kind of section to use?
4) If a large loss or difficulties in a low voltage lighting, you can supply the inverter and use the standard wiring in the house? But the inverter also loses ... in terms of deterioration of electronics, which is better for LEDs - a direct current on the wire or a voltage through an inverter and a controller? Or more easily should I have to make a separate circuit DC for the lighting, or I can do it for 220 volts?

[constructor]

I understand that you are worried about my health, but I prefer to pick up nothing heavier than a cup. Solar panels have also fallen in price (compared to what it was even a year ago), and now we can buy them relatively cheaply and it is quite real. Here's an excerpt from one of the price lists:
A set FEC-DC-60 (5A/12V, P gene. - 0,055 kW, U nom. - 12 V)
A generation of panels, max 0.055 kW
Battery capacity in Ah: 65Ah
A photopanel SCI 60 (60 W, 17 V, 3.45 A) 12 560.00 rubles.
A charge Controller SHS-6 (6a, 12) 1 860.00 rubles.
Leoch DJM 12V, 65Ah, AGM 4 950.00 rubles.
Lamps DC, 12 B, 900.00 rubles.
Mounting profile / switching graphic panels / jumpers 400.00 rubles. Total price 21 670.00 rubles.
Look closely a battery 65 a / h is included! A 60 watts panel! 5 bands that you mentioned above!
If you have five such panels? There is also more powerful hardware (of course, it is more expensive). I can send you the price by email, so, "leaf through". They declare that it is for the conditions in St. Petersburg. And if you only take the panel with a controller...Or you can buy the panel separately in case the lack one panel in the winter. There are "possible options" and they are still possible. Yes, I agree in advance that there is a risk and I accept all objections. But, alas, there are no alternatives for today. Anticipating an "acid rain" but whose windows did suffer from it? The windows at least once a year are clean even in the villages and here is the same we should take care of any equipment.

[expert]

And then at the right moment batteries don’t run, and you don’t have a replacement in the house, and the nearest store sells only a grocery. A neighbor bought ten garden lamps with SC and accumulates. They are charged during the day in the street, at night, he puts them in the house. I just do not inspire such lightning; I'm used to switch on the light in the room where I need the light without any moving. I don’t want to have a headlamp flashlight on hand. Except the fact to install these lights permanently, but then you have to think how feed them.

[buldozer]

I haven’t stopped on anything yet. First I want to see in a real "live" the same tapes. Why to choose them instead of lights? It's just a film, a few modules are connected in parallel for 3, 5, 8 or 10 cm i.e. buying a meter tape, you can cut it in a literal sense of the word to pieces (modules) and how you need i.e. if it is a toilet there is enough for one unit, in the kitchen over a cutting table, you can put two or three modules and with spacing, etc. Lamps are just more expensive. I am not speaking about design, but the need of lighting, so the look of self-made light does not bother me personally. But for now I have only plans now. I am waiting for my salary and days off. And about cable thinner than VVG 2h1.5 I have not seen thicker, the power of one unit has a miserable loss.

[bill]

I've lost touch of flipping the switch at night, and I'm happy. Lamps are placed permanently. A motion sensor monitors a lighting, which only works in the shadows. What they really have a problem is a reaction to the high humidity. In the bathroom a second motion sensor dies. But I didn’t make a protection because I thought on the "Chinese quality". But in a country toilet a toilet system works. In my apartment in the living room there are 6 downlights (a square base closed by milk glass with drawings. Now I screwed 14 lamps. I have an idea: using LED strip to paste a bulb base and to take RGB, so you can change the color.

[baltazar]

I want to replace all of the lights for LEDs. It is quite expensive but cost effective and permanent!! In connection with this there are some questions:
1. Where to buy LEDs and ready lightings, what company, preferably directly from China , less middlemen and cheaper.
2. Who has an experience of LED lighting assembly, purchasing only skeletons and LEDs assembling on site (if it is cheaper).
3. Please, share your practical experience in the use of energy-efficient appliances.
When selecting LED strip I stopped at SMD 5060 (60 LED) RGB
60 LEDs per meter
Power of 14.4 W / m
Luminous flux 420 lm / m
Voltage 12V DC
Price 500-550 rubles / m
The estimated consumption of LEDs - 40-50 per fixture (39-51 with a multiplicity on 3). The energy savings (until the summer season are not considered).The main issue is a color change and a light intensity. A repair wiring in the apartment can duplicate an existing system. When wiring in the apartment I had given up boxes. All wires from the sockets, lighting points, switches come in one (power) enclosure in the hallway. Further from each point of light and switch to the second (smart) enclosure stretched UTP cables. A wired computer network TV, SAT also comes there. A small drawback is the ceiling in the corridor, in order to hide a web of wires.

[Summer]

Do not mislead the readers, please. In the wooden houses an internal wiring is not prohibited. Inside combustible structures there are special requirements. Or in a metal tube or in a fence, solid materials such as plaster. In addition, these requirements apply to the wiring 220 in homes, and not for 12 V. I asked a question on the forum does anyone know about the rules of 12V electrical or restrictions on wiring in a residential area, but no reply received. I draw your attention that this wiring in the vehicle is hidden. The fireproof materials such as rubber mats, a polyurethane foam, a seat fabric covering, a carpet or a plastic shield. For example, in my case it will be a hidden wiring inside the joints 12 V, 0.5 - 1 A maximum in the wire. We'll have to install car fuses - fuses. And there is no special web. It has long been in vogue recessed ceiling fixtures. None complains on the wire cost.

[bill]

It would be interesting to know what type of LEDs. And the size of the rooms and the height. What is the height from floor lamps. Maybe you could find out? I believe that 3W for the room is not enough. Doubtful. I don’t know these LEDs of such efficiency W / lm . And a distance 0.5m is big enough as I think. I have 5 cm between the diodes on the ruler. Maybe you made a mistake and one LED is 3 W. Then, yeah. But they require radiators. According to my subjective estimations, it turns out that for the room 14 sq. m x 2.6 m we need about 7W at a high setting of the general background lighting. The minimum possible power is about 1W. Then switch to the preset patterns. I'm going to change patterns depending on the season. But I have not only the backlight. But also a direct lightning. A beauty is subjective.
I solve my problem and I tell about my example. White cable channels lamps on a white ceiling will look quite good, only outlining some line perpendicular to logs. The line will be only one, maximum two. Visually, there will not a ripple of canisters.
Only three (one line) or six (two lines) lights along the windows. The lines are not closed by walls. Canisters will be slightly tilted by adjusting the direction of light. Considering that option, my wife and I found it very attractive.