log home maintenance information

[Summer]

A timber house 200 sq. m. It has stood for three years. The color is natural. In some places (on the north side it began getting dark. It is a mold, as I understand. I have following questions:
1. The antiseptic treatment. What kind of specific antiseptics do you advise for the lower joists, the rest for processing is outside. How to treat inside? When (what time of the year) it is better to caulk and how often to do this procedure? I forgot to say that in most places inside the caulk will not work. How terrible it is?

[bill]

My own house was caulked manually by the tow. The time of a year is important only for the workers, because that work is durable, working outside the home, feet freeze in the winter. A periodicity depends on the current state of a joist seal. As for me, on the advice of "old men" I processed the seal from the street with a linseed oil. Now, the seal is not pulled out by birds, a state of the seal is normal. As for the last question I doesn’t completely understand, if when building a log house the seal was caulked, in principle, do not worry! And if it is not, then, theoretically, the heat leakage through joist gaps remains possible. Then, in the winter, these leaks are covered with a frost, hence the dampness, mold, and a penetration of cold in the room. Can I just caulk the outside? What time of year to choose? What kind of antiseptics should I cover the logs outside the house (lower crowns or top crowns)? How to cover beams in the home?

[constructor]

Let's start from the beginning. 1. Everything depends on the type of material for caulking. If the material has a low coefficient of a thermal conductivity, then, the caulking on the one hand allows achieving a desired result.
2. A task achieved by caulking. If it is just a warming, it is possible to caulk only the outside, when the goal is to raise the frame, at the same time insulate it, then you should caulk on both sides. And this must be done evenly, moving from crown to crown. The caulking should be really made from crown to crown, and then you should also break with a cord or a twine. It is sold on the market in large bobbins. We took a cut one, so a work was easier. The house after that work has become very warm. We caulked with an ordinary caulking and treated with a cord for a fastening and decorative effect. Then we painted once again. Everything gave the excellent house insulation. I needed to spend a little money, but I'm happy now with a result. I have a one bedroom in the apartment (40 m) last month I spent 700 rubles. for a 100 sq.m home, probably, it will be more.
And what kind of heating for 3000 rubles? a gas heating? It is possible to get a lot. Now, I am thinking how to build a house, a small summer house (a dacha) or for a permanent residence, and to rent an apartment. It is interesting to understand all the costs.

[bill]

For the electricity it is around 1000-1500 rubles. A security 6000 rubles per year. A heating costs around 1,000 cubic of gas. Now we pay for gas 1.71 rubles. There is still paying for a trash and snow removal, but it is a little money. For example, an apartment the Dolgoprudny region costs 3600 rubles. So, as it turns out, the apartment is more expensive than a house (or the same).

[buldozer]

Generally, it is a jute-linen. It usually quilted, so, it does not tear. A packing density can raise joists connections. Expense of this, the house can be raised up to 5 cm. 0.7 J is a blow crap. I'll advocate of automation, but in this case it is good only in the beginning, but still we need the electricity.
So, if I may, I'll stay in my opinion. The canvas is used for profiling beams or logs. For caulking it does not fit ...
Once again you may ask why? :-) Yes, because it does not score all the gaps, here for fun, try to score at least a full bottle of your canvas, and another tow, and you'll see). Do you think that a fragmented tow is a good thing but a folded jute roll is not good? To fill the gaps I caulk and not just fit. An example with the bottle can be considered if a caulking gets a throat through, but if only a finger, it certainly will not work. Incidentally, in the joist connections the jute is also laid. I can tell you a secret. I have a hammer, and the hand develops the force greater than 0.7 G. So, everything is checked.

[constructor]

A rope-yarn (a resin rope) is impregnated with antiseptic material specially woven linen strand, which gives it a higher biological stability, a good resistance to decay, which greatly increases a service life.
It is used in:
- for installation of sewer pipes;
- For caulking of lower crowns of log cabins, as it has antiseptic properties;
- for assembling of log cabins from timbers instead of hemp, stuffing around the edges of logs;
- for caulking of wooden ships;
- other ...
Raw materials – a linen rope (1, 2, 3 strands).
- Diameter of 6-8 mm or 10-12 mm.
Impregnating materials are pitch-bituminous mastics, oil bitumen (BNI-4, BND, etc.), solvents made by the special technology at an elevated temperature. A density - 1.09 g / cc.
Mass fraction of impregnation - 40%.
A breaking strength not less than 27 kg. Diameters are 8.6 mm, 10-12 mm (the most used) and more. Packing - 25 kg. The Packaging is bags made of polyethylene and polypropylene, a weight and diameter indicated on the adhesive labels of the bags. In the process of storage, transport and use a permitted rate of evaporation of the impregnating composition is 0.5-1%. Has a pronounced odor of petroleum.
Honestly, I have never caulked at home. Sewage pipes are another deal. Tell me, please, what to do in more advanced case. I have a log house 9 x 5 m made of logs, chopped in a bowl. Some wise men paved during the construction a tape between the logs made of a synthetic material. Everything looks neat - white strips of insulation between the logs. Along the length of the logs the caulk is tightly pressed. The big problem is that in all corners everything is shown through. You can stick your hands between the logs. I don’t plan to sheathe a house. Upstairs I have a finished loft. I would like to cancel that synthetic stuff or to score a little deeper, so you can only see natural hemp.
How much is the cost of caulking of such house.

[Summer]

After the installation of the framework for a bath on May last year, I tried to caulk myself, my patience only lasted for a half wall. I hauled out of the house all the blades (beech). I caulked with a moss. 3 workers had caulked for almost a week, and I always checked and monitored the quality of work. I paid $ 100.
For the year the log house shrinkage was almost 10 cm. Birds pecked nothing, but at the corners inside and outside we have to caulk again. The moss is absolute dry, the frame house was made by friends, small cracks, for four walls we needed 4 bags of moss.

[buldozer]

The moss was placed during the assembly process by cutters and they left me another 4 bags of moss, which they had brought with them (we cut in the Vladimir region, the moss cost was 500 rubles). And finally, after an additional caulking between logs we hammered a rope, but it was not for a decoration. I don’t know a technology but neighbor did it very well and he promised to teach me. In general, the work is quite easily with the moss and residues that didn’t fill gaps, as it dries, they are easily cut by the same kitchen spatula. All blades, which I did myself were broken, but purchased (of beech for 40 rubles) from four there were two of them. I boarded with a mallet.

[expert]

Maybe you shouldn’t fill a tow so tight? It is not recommended to compact synthetic wool. And if you put the foam under pressure, it is clear that it will not have such insulation. And there are more questions:
1. I have a log house, on the outside walls it has shrinked for 3 years normally, but all of the interior partitions didn’t shrink very well, apparently, as there are doorways. I should first lay the walls, and then caulk or just caulk anyway. As the outdoor walls will rise slightly... How to do it right?
2. How to lay timber rafters under a gable roof. I really need to know, because on the second floor at the end of walls I should also set the logs. They didn’t shrink themselves. And hoe to fill a gap where there will be a space after shrinking?

[baltazar]

A timber framed house trimmed with a blockhouse. Is it possible now to caulk only from the inside? Not the whole home, but at least, where are gaps. To caulk as it doesn’t blow ...
1. If the frame house is hanging on the doorways - be sure to fix your home and let it properly shrink. There might be problems. Make boxes on lime trees, if this is not done. If there a lime, remove the door trim and shake a stick (it does not make shrinkage), replace it with a smaller one. Why the outer walls will "rise slightly"? I do not understand ...
2. Generally, I understood very few...You are writing about the facades? What does it mean they didn’t shrink themselves?" What is the crack between the logs? What kind of space on top? Do you have a photo?
Well, I probably found the cheapest option: a sisal rope 89 rubles / Kg. A minimum quantity is 300 kg. With natural persons they do not work. They can, but the contract will not write anywhere. A prepayment 100 %. Waiting time is two weeks. The option is quite nice if there is someone to cooperate. And if you need the same diameter. I need a d-16 or 19. You need to look at the site on the samples.

[Summer]

Good afternoon! Tell me, please. There is a timber log house; during the construction we laid the moss between the logs. Now, a year has passed, the frame house shrinked and now we are going to caulk, so my questions:
1) Should I caulk, in my case, only with the moss or the hemp? And there I was told that the moss and the hemp cannot be mixed on the score of rotting, is it true?
2) Once the moss has dried, it became very fragile and I fear that joints will go to pieces over time. Does it make sense to cover up more with something or to paint, or is it not recommended?
When building a log house (of logs) between the crowns a jute fiber ribbon was set. Now, on the outside and inside of the rims that linen hangs 5-7 cm. Now, I am going to begin caulking. I have a question: to caulk (score) between the crowns these dangling edges or to trim them and caulk with any other material?

[baltazar]

I will allow myself to share my experiences on the use of tools for the work. The evolution went after the experience:
Stage 1 - tiny blades of a dry birch (a tip width of 50 mm, the impact area 0.1 sq.dm), a mallet 0.25 kg, as a result bladings are broken.
Stage 2 - different blades large enough of a dry birch (a tip width of 90 mm, the impact area 0.4 sq.dm), a mallet 0.5 kg as a result the need for frequent updates of a surface sting: sharpening and grinding (a resinous log house, sticking and slipping occurred), an insight is not enough into the joist space.
Stage 3 - based on the previous version, as a tip the metal is inserted - plates with a thickness of 3-4 mm, 8-12 cm long, different widths (for walls, corners, etc.), a mallet 1 kg, as a result, the work with very a good quality, a good penetration –a seal in the joist space.
But only one thing remains constant - the work, in spite of its simplicity requires a great strength, endurance, patience and a lot of time. Of course, I don’t mean caulking with a foam, I can’t imagine how to do it.
Well, I think meaningless to paint with a sealant, as the wood is a live material and it has the ability to grow, to move, it just breaks the sealant, although I read somewhere in the internet about the special sealant for joints between the logs.

[Summer]

What kind of a sealant ... A log house should be caulked. It is an axiom. The caulking respects a particular technology and it is not limited by setting a tow in the gap. Therefore a sealant is a grout and only. And a framework should be caulked. Only, then, it will stand straight and look that way.

[constructor]

Tight-fitting logs? Plus cutters - just hacked by line. A minus to put a little tow or have chosen a too deep slot.
Just do something rare that the entire length of the log is no place where the catch. But you will still find. In addition to the arsenal of tools you can use a paint spatula 1.5-2. "And most importantly, a patience.
And I want to add maybe it can help those who control the process construction or building DIY.
When building a log house you just need to control a density of packing timbers and if it is necessary to tamp a grooving heater in the middle of the back in the process. Immediately, after assembly, the width of grooves should be at least 3-4 mm. This also applies to vertical parts (corner joints in the walls, etc.).

[buldozer]

Ladies and gentlemen, allow me to share my experience: a log house 6 X 6, a height 2.70 m from debarked logs after 2 years of maturation was caulked by 2 caulkers (two weeks!!). Everyone envy their perseverance and a hard work! Work done!! I doubt that a layman (even with a physical strength) will perform well this work. A quality of caulking is the security of your future life in the house)).

[expert]

A flax tow was purchased. A caulker says it is very bad for caulking and offers to buy the flax (gray one). Agree or disagree? They caulk inside, so I thought, why a tow is worse?
It is not enough for the whole house, only the first floor inside. Why would not caulk the first floor inside, and then re-buy what a caulker advice? He is motivated by the fact that out of this material there will not a smooth roller, so, I find it is easier to decorate then by the rope than to buy again a fiber flax. Why the bale tow is so bad Or it is just easy to work with it?

[constructor]

First, we stacked timbers on a euro flax as a jute fabric was not on sale...But we noticed that a flax absorbs the moisture very quickly, and we changed as soon as we had the opportunity for a jute. It is quite another matter. And on the forum the people often argued that the jute is practical. We will also caulk with the jute. And why do you take such a wide ribbon for caulking? By the way, as far as I know, a linen is cheaper than a jute. Price for today:
a tow (jute) 15 6 + / -1 80 360
a tow (jute) 15 8 + / -1 80 400
a tow (jute) 15 10 + / -1 80 500
a tow (linen) 15 10.8 50 450
In practice: a grinding machine (where the tape is rolling around) is only good for the finish grinding of logs. Well, like, so it looks like trimmed logs, round and straight. Plus, the manufacturer is also important (as the tape was rolling fast). Primary removal of projections, twigs, irregularities and a residual bark at a reasonable rate is only possible when using grinders with a petal nozzle. This is not a metal brush (God forbid!), this is when pieces of abrasive paper glued on the disk. For the first pass it is better to take the forty. Attempts to process a house in the drill attachments IMHO are counterproductive. First of all, not all nozzles rotate without beating (don’t take ones that have the axis chucked in a drill, and set separately from the disk, and then screw in it on the thread - this is a diversion!), Secondly, it is too slow and an awkward tool. My optimum, two grinders with the forty (one cools down, the other works) and a grinding machine for the indoor use.
The theme intersects with others, but I want to make my two cents here: Here's my personal experience of caulking - who are interested there are pictures with the instruction: about caulking. Why I chose a jute tow. Pluses:
- It contains more lignin than in a flax and other seal materials.
- It does not crumble when it dries as a moss.
- Birds and other animals do not drag it, but they made such attempts while the tape sticking out after packing of logs but then they quickly abandoned
- Easy installation of a log house. You unrolled the tape and finished.
- If you get wet, it dries quickly.
A minus:
- The high cost of natural fiber with no additives.
I bought for myself a fabric 200 x 2 mm in the rolls containing a jute 90% and a linen 10%. A more common and therefore cheaper with containing 50 x 50. And I looked it, but it differ dramatically not only in color, but of a structure (in touch). The euro linen was also looked, but I didn’t like it. It is not elastic and looks like the material for boots. So, I'm wondering how to make a "primary" caulking. I made one wall, pushing a spatula in the lower ends of a dangling tow in the cracks between the logs, but the gap is not large, and after shrinkage of the framework, I think, in general problem will caulk.
And in this way can not leave, tow collects moisture after rain and I think hurts the log.

[bill]

Primary is usually named not a caulking but a curl. The builders stow the excess moss and tow. And after a year at least they make caulking. The builders caulk no matter how tightly was made a curl (a primary caulking) because a year later, there will be still gaps. What if you were told that you can do the initial caulking, then, it is not special and inefficient? Or they do not understand anything and did not even make normally. And in the winter frosts - 30 would you try to live for a week. That is when they would see there is a way of heat or not. Because at minus 5, but stay a couple of days you will not understand, but especially if the house is sheathed. For one day, you can see there are holes or not, only if the heat will be like in the bath, and on the street at least minus 20 and it can be seen the next day. And how well makes the team and who would work, but the nature does not change. The wood dries out! Maybe you do not have gaps, because you don’t have a permanent residence. But who live in these houses even caulked twice. If you can and once you can decide to live there for a long time, including the winter, then all at once will be clearer.
And does it matter a caulking sequence? Somewhere on the forum I read that caulking should be sequentially from the lower to the upper beams around the perimeter. So, you begin from the lower exterior of a house, then immediately make inside the same number (or vice versa), and so to the top. And if instead of jute you put a rolled insulation called Knauf, you should previously cut it into strips, then you could be able not to caulk it and it has a thickness 5cm in a free state, which means it fills the slot completely. And it will not blow, it absorbs less water at a strong side rain.

[buldozer]

About Knauf I did not know, I haven’t seen it, but I had the opportunity to observe a rolled insulation Isover, cut into strips. A complete mess, the first time it is in a free state, then it ‘droop’ like a cloth. It absorbs the moisture, but dries poorly. I had an experience of dismantling an outhouse built on Isover, and so, in the middle of a bar there was a band of mold and Isover was wet. That was on May, before the rainy season. Some poor workers made a log house for my father by a chainsaw (the groove was cut not in a semicircle, but a simple triangle)... Terrible work! He caulked, but gradually the beam diverged breadth and the caulking bailed out. Then he then treated the joints of logs ... and there is no more an air flow. Already, the construction has stood for 8 years. But it is clear that the foam on the sunny side falls apart quickly, especially if the upper crust of foam is cut.

[Summer]

For the beginning have you seen what kind of slots? So, so much tow is too much! For confirmation, even not launching the video it can be seen there is a crack to the right, although a hemp is laid. And when you have a really good caulking, respectively rammed tightly, then so fast and easy to score even those 1.5m. And when you have a big gap in the groove at the beginning we have to score the groove and then "decorate" the seam. Some people in order to accelerate the work, twist a "pigtail" of a tow Yes, this is nonsense! We use the same tools, as with the wooden spades you can’t caulk normally, or the equipment will be different. Of course, you can, but logs or grooves are spoiled a little! A wooden spatula if you use the method as on the video will quickly fail and most importantly where the groove is tight, then do not score.