The lake house in the country.

[constructor]

Welcome!! the guru of building frame structures!.I decided to enroll in your ranks and to build myself a half or a (semi-) construction, which will be called as a service building.
The size of the planned house is about 7950 *3670 (chosen from the needs and the opportunities with regard to the size of the sheet materials and its minimization of cutting).
The sesrvie building will have on the ground floor:
* a room
* an entrance hall, and a kitchen
* a combined bathroom (shower, WC)
And in the attic space there will be kind of 2-bedrooms
.
The layout of the 1st floor in the miniatures.
All internal walls are slight and aren’t supporting. Only the perimeter will carry - the outer walls, and, basically, as I understand it, the two long walls, because there will no load-bearing columns inside.

The construction will be built on the hillside, across the slope (the facade to the street, the slope to the pond, the pond is about 80 meters).
The map of the height drop in the corners of the building lokks as follows (from the pond to the street):
-60 -20
-400
The soil – a chernozem about 1 meter and then it smoothly passes into something of a clay and a sand. There is no water of 2-d metres depth. I make hole on November last year. But everything is dry and comfort.

Based on the received information from the Internet and books, there were decided to make the foundation columnar with a grillage of 150x150. It was necessary to fast the timber on the posts by putting the vertical axis on the pin of each column without screwing by the nut (in the case of discrepancy of columns in the vertical axis, so that you can equalize the height by the pads, just in case, for short). The tape has disappeared because of the significant inclines.
The layout of the foundation and their parameters in miniature.

Then I ‘am planning to tie the perimeter by the board of 150*50, floor beams. The flooring is - OSB-3, a thickness of 18mm. The bottom hem is OSB-3, 10 mm. Inside, as expected, the layers and a glass wool “Isover”, a layer of 200 mm.
The scheme of arrangement of the floor in in miniature. (only the frame and the upper deck).

Then I continue to design...

That's a lot of thought about all this:
1. The mass of the building (excluding the mass of the foundation pillars), about 7-8 tons, I take a technological reserve of 25% - 2 tons + a snow load from the roof with a slope of 50 degrees to the horizon - 3.2 tons (61 sq. m. * 180 * (60 -50) / 35). Total, "the peak" mass of this “joy” will be almost 13-14 tons.
2. The support area of my posts: 45 * 45 * 12 pieces = 24 300 square centimeters. The undercutting ground support of the pillar I accept as 1.2 meters (you never know, will it suddenly become swollen or crawl slowly the upper layer). Thus, if we assume the carrying capacity of the soil to a minimum - 1 kg / sq cm. having a carrying capacity of the foundation of 24.3 tons.

And now the questions:
1. Whether the foundation is correctly selected and counted?
2. Is it enough the beam of 150 x 150?. I honestly doubt, since the entire burden of the house is 13-14 tonnes, will fall through the walls on it, and it's about a one ton per meter or 0.6 kg per square cm. To be honest when I counted everything, I began to think about a reinforced concrete grillage of posts...
3. Whether the floor beams are laid correctly? The ground joist based on a timber grillage of 10 cm on each side. A cross-section of joists is 200 * 50. The length of the ground joist is 3.57 m. The length of the ground joist is 3.37 m. The step of the ground joist is about 50 cm.

So, there are now these questions, I ask knowledgeable and experienced experts and practitioners to dispel my doubts, or to put on the right path. I would be inordinately grateful!

[buldozer]

It's almost the home – 28 sq.m. - the first floor.
The beam as a grillage I think it’is weakly... moreover the slope of the site. It’s necessary to weld on a concrete or a steel channel to the cast-in posts.
1. The dimensions of the oriented strand boards, (OSB) are unusual, is it a default?. Usually, they are 125*250 or 122*244. Once, I saw in the price in one office, like yours, 122*250. I asked whether it was a garbage? , They looked up at the documents and found a typo.
2. Why did you choose a step of 50 cm between the joists? It is so wide “Isover”?
3. On the beams as runs under logs if it seems watery, Isn’t simply the number of columns to increase by 2?

[constructor]

That's what, most likely, bothers me. I will pour the grillage: a width of 200 and a height of 300. It is almost resolved, moreover the concrete will be necessary for it less than 1.5 cubes. The truth that I will work with a sheathing, but that’s OK.
Thank you, you really messed up with the size ... this implies an answer to the second question: lists of 1220*2440, a lag step is 60 cm. The insulation will be exactly in a size, too. 50 cm was based on the length of the sheet the oriented strand boards (OSB) - 2500, which was a mistake!
I will make changes in the project...
The grillage section (w) 200x (h) 300 is monolithic on the posts will be sufficient for this design, wuoldn’t it?

I was looking for the building materials in Kiev, found in the firms that they sold the European OSB, The “Kronospan” (Czech Republic) and the “kronopol” (Poland) and the size of them is larger 1250*2500.
And how to choose now the lag step and the wall racks? I need to think about it...

However, the lag step is left as it was 50 cm.
As of now the foundation is ready.
The heels are 450*450*120 reinforced by the mesh from the armature f8 with the release of 3-f10 twigs in columns.
The posts are milled pipes f150, reinforced with three rods of armature f10 with the release of a grillage.
The grillage section (w) 250 x (h) 400 reinforced with a spatial frame: the transverse rods of square F6, 5 – the step is 250, and in areas of the pillars, the step is 150, the longitudinal reinforcement from the armature f12. In the lower layer 3 twigs along the length, in the top bar there are 4 in the post zones.
Here's a foundation!!.
The first 4-5 days I poured it continuously with a water, but, now, there is no way to water, so, it is tightly packed with a lamina and is waiting for me at the weekend. One question has arised. After a pouring the decking has a little shrinkage in places and the grillage “walks” in the vertical up to 3. How can I even it to the level? With a cement sand mortar or something else?. If so, can someone can me give the ratio of the mixture and how to pack to ensure a good adhesion of the mixture and the grillage? And most importantly, when should I do it? Right now or in 28 days?

- Over the weekend I trained in the manufacture of a fencing.
I was digging the fence for samples in the site of 4 meters. I made it specially not dense, as not to close the visibility of the future garden.
It seems perfect and beautiful!

- Over the weekend, we removed the planking. The ramming drawbacks were discovered in some places of the basement.
I mixed a cement-sand mortar, a grade 150 and caulked with it all the remarkable and deepest flaws. The next time I will caulk the rest, so that everything will be smooth, and then I will seal with a butyl.
Also, the swings of the level of the upper horizontal surface of the beam are visible on pics, which will be also displayed to the level by the cement-sand mortar, then covered with a mastic and a glue in several layers of roofing.
Also, there is a photo with the place where the sheathing was out and we were treated it quickly.

In the end, when everything has already tired. we upgraded the fence, and made it more tight.
Photos are in the same order as the description.

Questions:
1. will someone tell me how it is terrible for the grillage such weaknesses as the upper post pics?. Is it enough the treatment applied in the form of the cement-sand mortar and the butyl mastic seal?.
2. How to seal the "hanging" grillage in the bottom?. With what?. And is it really needed at all (outside the perimeter will be an infilling between adjusting posts)?

[bill]

Everything above is my opinion and I do not impose it to anybody.
1. I faced with such "shoals." PCR M-150, it "flew" by pieces through the year (Siberia). So, I "ironed" again (a wet solution is powdered with a cement and sprinkled with an iron trowel);
2. In the bottom as there is an access there is a modern bitumen-polymer mastic (I din’t know the Ukrainian brands);
3. As we duged a trench in a full profile, so it was logical to make it the low and upper grillage. It would have been a "frame" on the strength of materials with a safety factor of 10. Then we could not to worry about vibrations and caverns.

[expert]

- You choose a very complicated way. Is was easier just to drill holes and simply to put there the armature and to collect the same grillage. Your grillage will stand a five-story building, but the posts are thin. And, of course, the armature is so much but it would be enough 12 mm. Good luck!

[constructor]

I began to dig a cellar in the perimeter of the future building.
It’s a yellow and orange square inside the outline of the foundation. The depth from the ground level is 2.2 meters.
The thickness of the layer of soil between the bricks of the cellar and the nearest supporting heel of the foundation will be about 50 cm. The support heels of the fundametna lie at a depth of 1.3 meters. The masonry is scheduled for a half-brick.
I would like to ask you:
Is the brickwork of a half-brick is enough for the cellar?
Will the pillars of the foundation put the pressure on the laying and destroy it?

Since that time, I has delivered lumbers for the house, including the furring and rafters. I permeated them with a fire-retardant and a septic. And I packed in stacks.

We duged the cellar. We filled a base plate of 10 cm of a reinforced concrete with 10 cm of a crushed stone. The concrete was reinforced with a grid of 10 x 10, BP-1 - 4 mm.
I began laying with a reinforcing wire BP-1 5 mm, I didn’t find 4 mm in bars) every 4 rows.
There is progress in the construction of the cellar.
15 rows we stacked. 1.1 m height of the walls.
The shield is designed for the masonry above. He will then the bottom of the sheathing under floors.
We made a canopy over the table from the rain and the sun.
Well, and a positive photo in the morning - 6:00 am.

I've been thinking all the same and in our forum came up with a proposal to stop and everything properly weigh. Then. to find the strength to reconsider the concept, and remake it now.
To take a standard haul flight and redo the entrance.
This is slightly more expensive, but then you will say “thank you”. You will be tired with th namuchalis can lazami.
verified by practice. basement with a staircase-drabinoy this meal. eventually even dropped, etc. it is simply too dangerous even. loaded back and forth, because kids will climb, a wife, etc.
Think about it. while there no walls, You can quickly alter.
Finally, the construction of the cellar is finished. The rest just to whitewash. I will do the shelves the next season.
So, what is done:
1. The walls are 60 cm from the blocking of the cellar down and the blocking is insulated by the extruder “Stayrofoam” 300-A, the thickness of 50 mm (thanks my godfather and a girlfriend Veronica).A pPolystyrene foam was pasted on the BIEM mastic (a mastic of a bitumen emulsion, water-based). Why such a sealant?. Because it found in the representation of DOW Chemical (a producer of the required extruder), that the pastes based on organic solvents destroy the extruder. The joints were insulated with the same mastic of styrofoam sheets.
Well, I insulated also a collar hatch.
2. We produced a strong upper winter cover for the hatch, at the wintering time over a cellar.
3. He finished with a plaster of walls inside the cellar.
4. We covered the cellar itself with the ground. Everything was leveled, then we made slopes to take care of the water. We washed the foundation to be able to finish it with a waterproofing.
5. The father-in low until I plastered with a direct assistance of a grand daughter spread the extra soil on the site. Everything was leveled. I thank him so much for that great job!
And trough the plaster, the washing tub was not empty!

On the weekend we covered with a roofing material on the foundation with two layers.
We used “Akvaizol” CX-3, 0 (3 mm in a glass canvas) with a burner.

We placed 9 out of 12 columns under the fence from the neighbors.
I took a wire 1.8 mm, in a height of 1.5 m with a 35 mm cell.
Columns of a square tube 40h40h2 of a black metal. I degreased it by the “White spirit”. Then I used a primer GF-021. I will paint with an enamel PF-115 after the installation on a site.
The upper opening of the bars I blew wiht a foam and sealed with the bitumen-polymer mastic (I wil brew it, but there is no welding).
We drilled the post of 20 cm diameter to a depth of 1 m. by the garden bore.
We spiked a little with gravel, then tamped, the gravel a bit of a sand, tamped again, then put the post and poured a concrete.
Thank you very much!

[constructor]

Having won the neighbors about the incorrectness of the demarcation of the land and having moved a little bit the posts to my side, the fence was constructed.
Good relations with the neighbors were saved!
During this time, we planted more trees and a mini-plantation of strawberries.
The harsh winter passed!
And a long-awaited spring and a new season have come!
In autumn we added the foundation under a porch and a terrace: pictures are here and in miniature.
In winter, we imported materials: pictures are also here.
In April, a little workout arrangement of tracks in the garden, photos are here.
On May we took up the house:
- we digged up an old barn and cleared the site from the debris;
- we pu a sand in the cellar, which was under the collapsed barn;
- then we brought a three phase electricity with a separate cable from the RU-04 (12kW), then we reconnected the old house from the new input;
- We buried the cable from the input to the new home, the cable to the new home into the well for the next pump, a plumbing for the new home and a garden watering, the sewage from new houses to the future septic tanks;
- We lined, covered with the film and slept with the river sand the spot under the house;
- We made the waist;
- We redirected an exhaust duct of the ventilation of the cellar;
- We built the floor (joists, a bottom hem, OSB10, a kraft paper, a glass, a gidrobarer, a flooring, OSB22, we sealed the joints);
- We took in steel tubes, the cables that go from the land to the new house;
- We built few fragments of the house walls.

In addition to the building we complied a spring field work in the garden.
We planted all sorts of things. We tried a ploskorez “Fokin” and didn’t plow the garden.

Great thanks to my assistant: to my father-in-law (for his invaluable assistance in the construction sector), to my mother-in for her invaluable help with the garden and home affairs), and, traditionally, to my neighbor Valera for all services, and to a Chief Assistant, Yegor, he had time to help everyone and everywhere!. A great respect to my beloved wife!.
Duringthe weekend we collected another 2 fragments (8 meters) of the walls. One has been set, and for the second one we hadn’t enough time because It's been bucketing down all day.
And we left him lying on the platform. It was raining like sin, it rained 10 times a day, but we worked together.
I draw the conclusion: working together (one, who does everything and the assistant, who can help to move or hold), we can safely build and install (in a good weather) six metres of walls in a day.
If two people are doing the same, they will easily do 10 meters of the walls.

[baltazar]

The three of us built 20m (a ground floor) and put it in a half day. BUT! Racks and details, I sawed in advance.
Good luck!

[constructor]

Congratulations!/ I have only the floor of 35 meters.
And, I didn’t pre-saw, It was no sense and no time for it.
I took a full time, from the removal of boards from the stack, selecting of things, as the material is not smooth and the size “walks” a little bit. before the installation a fully finished part. And, before the installation I was still planing, deducing the planes of the future lining, so, that everything would be ok.
And when you are alone with the assistant- "to bring or to take"… There are not three humans, but practically there is one man, because all measurements, markup, cuts or gashes, nails, fasteners made by one person.

Tthe preparatory sawing took probably also not more than 15 minutes. It is easier for me to operate with the whole real terms, so as not to mislead the people. And if you wonna to compare, you are always welcome, but that's another topic... At St. Nicholas and Trinity day, as usual, we had rest on barbecues, a fishing, etc.
I made myself working today/ it was so hard.
Well, here as always, the evening rain ...
Unexpectedly, I was surprised that the first strawberries appeared on May 22, and our son ate first ripe berries!
On the construction site we placed the wall, made the last time and built and install another one. For today, on the ground floor are left two fragments. The sawn materials come to an end, it's time to bring up the fresh materials that were being sawn on February and are stored at a friend's stack pilorpame.

[constructor]

Over the weekend, we managed to close the perimeter of the ground floor. Then we made the inside partition between the kitchen and the bedroom.
This is a 150 residue, it’s good enough for the racks of the attic space.
And this is everything that remains from nearly 12 cubic meters, 200 for the blocking and for the boards of various calibers for the platforms and trestles.

And, we delivered 12 cubic meters of timbers, then impregnated them for a continued construction. It took out of 28 kg of the fire protection called "Gladiator-1". - it's 280 liters of solution. Here are they are impregnated.

[bill]

Dear, constructor, how did you seal the seams of a platform?. I'm going to build a house by the method of the platform, but with that weather I ‘am in a doubt, how to insulate the floor?.

[constructor]

Under the OSB 22 there is a polyethylene film of 120 microns.
I filled the OSB seams with a silicone for the outdoor use with UV stabilizer for the entire thickness of the plates. Then, when the silicon froze, I juicy painted over all, including all the nail heads and ends of the OSB on the perimeter.
But this is certainly an extreme, because to insulate the floor, to close the seams I need till the autumn!. Although till the fall I have enough time..
I had a small vacation. It turned out to work twice in 4 days, a total of 8 working days.
I only changed the roof.

We have made a pattern and cut the rafters for the porch and the terrace, and then over the veranda we secured a temporary film from the rain. It was so difficult to water from this tank. Is it strange or not but in fact, the rafters were in full accordance with the drawing and fited into aplace like own.

[constructor]

Again, rain, lots of water ...
But nevertheless, we managed to make a piping in the attic and to finish a lower wall and to expose the rafters above the veranda and the terrace.
Oh, yeahh, and we built timbers from one side.

[constructor]

A little work out the garden, then I replaced the brick borduries and old tiles for the plastic. It is true, then I managed to cut a beautiful green lawn with a blunt mower, now it looks horrible ...but still nice...

[constructor]

We made the walls between the rooms in the attic (and we didn’t do the walls of the bathroom, but we will build them after the roof). We made some lattice booms upside down, but we decided to leave them so. The walls from the timbers of 100x50, the lattice booms of 100x30 from the boards.
Finally, we assembled and installed the first pair of rafters, it took almost 3 hours, I hope the rest will go faster because it is clear how to do it. The rafters of 200*50, a bolt-tightening – 150*50. Then we put the rafters on the attic and smoothed out the levels.
Then we stuffed wind-ties at the level of a cold attic space.

[constructor]

Well, then things began to take off.
We worked only with the upper roof, so as not to jump in levels.
We shaped gable overhangs. We formed the eaves.
We hemmed the overhangs for the futeru soffit. We stretched a “Taywek”, punched the furrings of 40 x 60.
Then we installed gable dormers on the baten.
We stuffed the grillage 25 * 100 in increments of 312 mm in the axis.
Then we put lining plates at the super-diffused windows.
And we punched out the OSB-3 12mm.

[constructor]

To the next, we did the same thing with the bottom sloping ramp. The “Tyvek” was pulled to the ground slope over the terrace.
we decided not to pack over the terrace.
The rainfall at this stage interfered working, but we forced through!
Meanwhile, the heroes set to the work.
To clarify the facts, we laid the bitumen on a continuous layer of the lining carpet.
We have tiles called “Katepal” (“Rufleks”) Jazz, red. “Vilpe” chimneys. the trimming of metal “Ruukki” (“Ranil”) made somewhere in the “basements” in Kiev.
But here are my roof builders - Sergey and Anton!!.
Along the way, we laughed and cryed, but we did it.
The main stumbling block is a maintaining of the installation technology.
And as always, the most controversial part is a contiguity and borders.
Everything seems to be simple and clear, but the mass of the nuances during the bulding, especially, when it concerns windows and chimneys.

[constructor]

Totally, everything till the bitumen, from the rafters to the OSB, was done in 4 hands for 19 working days. 4 hands are my father-in-law and I. His contribution is enormous. You can do such work alone, but it does not a work! ... a great thank you!
Thanks to my beloved wife!
Is it much or little - 19 days, I do not know, but it seems for the first in the life roof it’s good job!!
The bitumen was laid for 6 days. And almost two full days of rain.

[constructor]

The widows look out the west. How do you think is it enough for the light?

[constructor]

There is enough light there, for one room of 10 square meters: there is a dormer of 0.7 sq. m., the window opens on the east and a gable window of 0.9 sq. m, the windows opens on the south and a small window of 0.4 sq. m opens on the west, it is more than enough, the ratio of a glass to the area of the room is roughly 1:5. With the second room is almost the same story, but it is a little bit smaller...
Small windows (the two larger ones) are bigger, that it could be seen from the attic a front yard and the entrance to the site.
And a small window in order not to be dark on the stairs interstorey. Yeahh, and the facade had to be diluted, and then a blank wall between two ramps looked not very nice...
Over the weekend, we began sewing the north wall.
We trimmed it with a clapboard of 100 * 25.
Without forests, the occupation is one of a kind.