log home building ideas

[baltazar]

What kind of framework do you want for the ceiling? Usually, the ceiling sewn directly to joists. Just do not fear that screws will not stand the drywall and falls on a head, in terms of selling the drywall presses through. Maybe it is better use plywood? The effect is almost the same, and both boards are not necessary, but you don’t need beams, especially using screws every 60 cm

[buldozer]

It depends on your requirements to the ceiling surface. In fact, the way it happens, but if you catch the horizontal, and it will not be perfect (on beams), then it will lose altitude on the level of errors in the beams. It is not necessarily to overhang these suspensions. We equaled so screwing to the joists (in the lowest point directly to the beam and the alignment through the wooden wedges) or with self-tapping threaded, they fix at the required distance the wooden railing.

[bill]

These cracks do not appear because of the form of railing (wood or metal), but from the correctness of the unit frame rails fluctuation ceiling (beams), including non-distributed loads on beams from racks of a roof system. Namely, in the ceilings for example, I advocate the use of wooden rails (just imagine how the screw sits on a tree, and both metallic railings, on one turn of screws). The guides will ‘eat’ a height and there will be also cracks, of course, it is a minus but a framework of boards across the beams as I think will not make a big progress of sheets? Are wallpapers on gypsum cardboard glued properly? Although, I think it paint in white. Tell me which kind of drywall to use for the ceiling?

[Summer]

Some of my friends have a broken drywall in a wooden house in several places. But they had a wrong work – they just nailed sheets to joists. I think you can’t make so. As it is impossible to nail the drywall to the wood planks. You do not imagine what kind of forces are in the "ride" wood. I'll try to upload pictures of cut screws, fastening two pieces of wood. Hardwood floors any thicknesses are walking, so the technique of using drywall in stone houses and apartments is not suitable for wooden houses. It is necessary to think of a special attachment to the joists or planks of a rough ceiling with gaps between the sheets. A clearance should be closed for beauty. So, all in all, I think the use of drywall will not give a tangible gain in price, in space or in height. From my point of view of the drywall ceiling with a corresponding sliding design, plywood or OSB cost about the same.

[expert]

A wooden house, which means "alive", which changes its geometry during the year only after compensating frame!
- "Fix" a fiberboard for easy frame of bars. At the seams, joints (with a gap in 5 – 10 mm) cut out of it the same layout (DVP), you can fill decorative elements with fantasy (triangles). Thanks God this material is cut by the saw. Later use the paint and a few years you will not remember about your ceiling.

[bill]

Alive, but not to this extent! Yes, it increases or decreases in the wrong place, and this is usually first 10 years, then these movements will be almost invisible, especially if the house is a permanent residence. And in 50 years it practically "dyes"! And if you talk like you, then the fiberboard will not save you, it is still all skewed.

[Summer]

Let us further develop. We will build 3d-model, we take into account the difference between the ramps on different walls of the support given the exposure of solar energy, the location of walls and the effects of wind, magnetic field and solar activity on the linear changes in a linear section. Yes. Don’t forget the kettle in the right corner, boiling 5 times a day.

[bill]

You should make a ceiling of plasterboard necessarily on metal rails, thus it is impossible to mount the guide profile (PN) on the perimeter of the ceiling (i.e. you do not need it to work). The ceiling should be only on the index profile (a ceiling profile) that hang on hangers, then it you will have a "floating" (otherwise, the ceiling will always diverge seams between sheets). This is not to plug the joints around the perimeter of the ceiling (the walls). They need to cover the ceiling moldings (a baguette) and preferably go with glue (a sealant) only the bottom seam of the baseboards. The ceiling "takes away" about 4 cm from the lowest point (an index profile + a drywall). Not scolding a horror where you are good at the words of your acquaintances. We build not for the first year wooden houses with turn-key trimming and we have the opportunity also to observe their operation. No other material in ceilings except a plasterboard or a gypsum fiber board.

[baltazar]

At home in the living room I have a plasterboard ceiling fastened to the plates of the overlap on the frame of a wooden block 5 * 6 cm - microscopic cracks at the seams, which are difficult to see from the floor, but perfectly clear, if you stand on the stool.
After a year in the kitchen I have attached a plasterboard ceiling to the hardwood floor to the ceiling profile 60 * 27 mm. It OK.
Working with GKL I abandoned wooden frames. With profiles the work is much easier and cozy. The results of skilled construction workers were seen by me. Again, you do not carefully read my post. Even you bother to read everything. Of course, you can make plasterboard ceilings, but not as much as the author, to whom I responded. If it is done correctly, of course everything will be fine, what I actually said. Another question whether it is necessary in a wooden house to display in "pure zero" if the walls are log or lumber. Explain the need to zero output ceiling in a moving house, where the walls are uneven by definition. Look up interiors of wooden houses in magazines or online, almost you will never see a smooth little white ceiling in the room. You build strange houses, post the photo, though.
I looked in the profile photo - beautiful houses, but the interior of wooden house with plasterboard ceiling was not found.

[buldozer]

1. Drywall is not nailed to the wood, but bolted.
2. Your understanding of the wood "hesitation" exaggerated.
3. The method of using the FCL in wooden houses used more often than you think.
4. Why are the gaps between plasterboard sheets?
5. Why use a sliding design?

[baltazar]

I will explain more in detail. I have a log house (5.20 x 5.20 inside) this is the living room, and I have an extension from bars (3 meters) than a kitchen and a bathroom. And all this is covered with a gable roof. I want a white flat ceiling in the wooden house (milled) as the room seemed higher. The main criterion is not expensive so seams are not visible and not a plastic. And not so heavy as not to overload beams. There is hardboard but even how equate the seams? I think the ceiling will have waves. If I use the plywood then what will be the minimum thickness? I consider all options, thanks comrades!

[Summer]

Across the bottom of beams I rarely screw the boards as along the beams plywood joints fasten to nothing but we mount along the boards the plywood. How to put the insulation between the beams on top of boards and probably as a vapor barrier from the bottom right to pull? 1. A plasterboard is a plaster, but from the outside - a carton, do you represent? This is how it is sometimes.
Attention to the question: On board you can apply wallpaper?
2. With plasterboard you can sheathe any house at all, but if the design is mobile, the drywall will crack. From which we can make any fancy twists on the ceiling and walls, a multi-level ceiling, round arches, reveals, in general, all with regard to finish!
3. You can cover up the gaps even with gypsum, alabaster, etc. Though there are certain rules to be followed.
4. I have never made the insulation under the drywall.
5. In the building shops a metal profile and guides are sold, you can make the ceiling, the walls, the various intricate shapes, etc.
As for the houses of timber ... A timber frame house - this is not a house of shaped timbers, it is the home of the ugly, not planed square logs where is a tow.
Attention to the question: what do you think the walls are left open or the people try to cover up them?
Where did you get such a terrible idea? What we've been reading horrible stories or what? And the houses from ordinary timbers look as well as from the other timbers, even though profiled or glued. After all milled logs made from ordinary timbers.

[constructor]

Why does a simple timber house must be ugly and unplanned? And hemp does not have to hang around. These are just yours it is not clear what is the basis, assumptions! And now pay attention, the answer - we have planned them specially, no further sheathing, to use. And there's nothing to hide. Why spend some money and effort to trim unnecessary? On a birch (and not only) plywood there is labeling, indicating the quality of two surfaces. In principle, the four digits: 1 – the best quality, 4 - the lowest. But as it is often only one side of plywood is used in mind, we often make two sides with different qualities, such as 1/3 or 2/4 on different sides. This plywood does not look worse than 1/1 or 2/2 but it is cheaper. If you want to make it, look at my album or in the topic, there is a history of building, so that we can all well imagine. Of all the trimmings only a redoubt of internal surfaces and decorative rope at the seams. These photos are the ceiling in the kitchen nailed cranial pieces and threw them on old pieces of plywood on bottom, I will sew the ceiling with plastic panels (this is still an idea). Here is the ugly plywood - can it be nailed to the bars? Where to fasten the insulation? To the joists below or between the joists under the insulation directly on the rough plywood? We roll out between roofing beams, we hold on top with rails that are nailed to the joists. But we have for a ceiling insulation – sawdust. So, put on top between the beams. Plus the fact that there will be nothing to roll down when ceilings will engage. And in terms of efficiency - God knows, like no difference, I think.

[bill]

In principle I call such board a rail, and I use it. The big problem is with 6 mm not that will jar, but it will be harder to deep a screw. Make a little well under it and there is almost nothing left where to stick. We can say to drill through! So, it is better 1 cm. I did not like 6 cm!
Hide screws with a plaster and paint! But some people use foam boards special for a ceiling. I don’t know what their scientific names are because I was not interested in because I did not like it. This doesn’t matter what kind of plywood, though used. I like when the white ceiling reflects sunlight! And I thought about one color. You know what does it happen. If so, then you paint it of course, but for the paint it is better to take normal enamel, as a water-based stain doesn’t hide the plaster. Although try, then tell me, what kind of paint was used.
None is interested in OSB? I saw OSB walls painted with water emulsions, I liked it, the effect of non-woven wallpapers. I want to try to make a ceiling in a wooden house and paint it white. If someone made it, please, respond. And it is right! These plates only used in technical areas and then if there is no strong moisture. I remember there were plates before just glued sawdust, and so they eventually become banned for residential use. Who was on top apartment (house) finished these boards, tell that his eyes watered when the heat begins. It can be seen such reaction from the "good" glue!

[baltazar]

The topic is relevant, as soon I will make a ceiling. And I fully agree with the views expressed above, that the beauty is a combination of materials, so that the wood must be combined with plaster, metal, glass and stone. And where will be this plaster this is not important, it is important whether it is plasterboard or plywood. Only, in my opinion, it should be plaster and not paint because the texture is closer to the rock and it is better goes with the wood. Feng Shui, again.
This is if you consider the aesthetics of the issue.
And if you consider technologies, it is better to take something harder than a drywall, maybe GVL? Or magnesium?

[buldozer]

A minus of a stretch ceiling is a sound amplification (it works as a big membrane), before installing you should close the rough ceiling (I closed with a vapor barrier) that the sawdust would not fall on the floor. There will be spots! If there is no firm cut-off, electric trimmer tool which stabbed at 45 angle and you need exactly this angle, then buy a corresponding carpentry tool for manual hacksaw with the angle of 45, 90 and 135 *.
And no one sewed the ceiling with parquet? I like a "black birch" color. Just as how to look that color on the ceiling.
The batten is really annoying. If you really want to use SML, take the choice very seriously. For many of the messages on the forum it is clear that it is very different opinion. I bought 10 mm thick, expensive parquet but there was complete garbage. It crumbles, buckles, and it doesn’t stick. But the ordinary gypsum plasterboard is cheaper and good.

[Summer]

Well, we will try, in principle, to me it looks like more, and the installation seems easier than the GKL, and it looks tougher. I understand that it can be fixed directly to the ceiling joists (by tapping) without using a metal profile. Is it right?

[bill]

Hello. I have the attic at the cottage attic. i.e. a rough the biggest part of it is flat, but somewhere a meter with a beveled edge. Who can tell me what kind of ceiling can be done so as it not to be attached to the rough ceiling, but only to the walls. The walls are brick. A room 6 by 4 meters. 6 x 3 and 6 x 1 horizontally. What kind of beams should be fixed to the wall? Generally, what kind of options there might be?
Most likely, this is a veneer ... Just carefully chosen a picture of wood and carefully toned. IMHO, of course. What kind of this technology? Paintings, puffing under your breath, puffing a voluntary and you will be happy! After a while, I'll look somewhere I had master classes on a screen painting.
I know three ways to artificially age the wood:
1. Metal shape – a selection of softwood, painting dark.
2. Just painting light (if you want to whiten).
3. Three layers of painting from dark to light through the brush.

[baltazar]

The ceiling has Tikkurila panels with a protective structure (1570) 2 layers. Panel-beams with a protective structure (5057) diluted with water by 25%. The beams have to be smeared with a thin layer, otherwise it will be much darker. And if you need the opposite lighter, you can add a little more water. Not only in these directories. Generally, the Tikkurily online website has a mess with flowers, says one thing, but in fact the point of sale Kohler and other directories. And they have no the color 1570 on their site, but in fact it is in a color scheme. It's just white, no shades. But if the desire is indestructible, any tent fabric! Now a lot of colors!
On bottom you will have to tamp beams! But from these you can make their own additional pattern that emphasizes (or shielding) the texture.

[Summer]

Yeah! It will be so charming sway from the breeze (and sometimes from the wind, much of which now somehow added!) And a dust / insects and etc will smoothly fall into the beer ... (a champagne / a kvas).
At the moment when you sit at a table on the veranda to enjoy the beauty of nature rampant, melancholy sipping a drink through a straw!
I have a frame house, beams go through 62 cm. For various reasons, planned in the bedrooms and in the kitchen to make a ceiling of fiberboard (hardboard). I read the whole topic and others – I did not meet anything about the ceilings of fiberboard, except for a few casual remarks to a negative context. Is that bad? In the Internet I read that MDF is strength. I have as the insulation - ecowool, the load is quite small. If the fiberboard painted before installation on both sides, it will not be enough to prevent it from gaining the moisture? And the humidity in the bedrooms did not seem to be large. Please, write me who has experience. Positive or negative. Thank you in advance.