log home building ideas

[Summer]

Last year in the country I also wanted to paint the house. But a water paint rolled in painting, I bought some other colored paint. It was beautiful about 10 minutes then the paint "ate" a foam.
But six years ago (in the repair of the apartment), I covered such stoves, water-based varnish slightly tinted, it was not bad ... but when covered with foam there were little small slits between the boards.

[bill]

In a store I saw three kinds of non-woven wallpapers. 1) There are non-woven wallpapers for painting white, which creates an effect after painting of plaster relief. 2) There are colored non-woven wallpapers for relief plaster. They can not paint, but you can paint. 3) And there is vinyl on non-woven with a pattern. It is not written "for painting", there are even stool, with a satin sheen. I used that one for a room. So, there is a different figure: textured or embossed plaster under a crumpled tissue, and there is a plot or an ornamental pattern.

[Summer]

Good afternoon! Please give me a piece of advice how to repair a kitchen in a brick house.
I am going to install the tiles for the wall, and for the floor – a linoleum.
My wife asked to replace a window for a plastic one. Nowhere to go, and I will have also to install the window.
And the questions are so.
1. We have recently redecorated a bathroom-toilet. I remember what it was a dust and a dirt.
What to do in the first place: to put a window or to hollow walls and lay tiles? On the one hand, the construction dust can be hidden in the mechanics of the window, on the other hand, when you install windows after all new tile can be damaged ...
2. Now, we have a wooden floor covered with linoleum. It is necessary to raise the floor and to lay a new one? If so, what to do: wooden or to pour a concrete block and pour a cement screed, and then a plywood on top?
Thanks in advance for your advice.
PS: as for plumbing and electrics I make them myself, but for the rest I hire a craftsmen.

[buldozer]

Does somebody use a latex paint? Share your experience. My friend has a few years the walls covered with the paint like new ones. But she was put on the net. I'm also not a reason to bother. I need to not more than two years. Just brush my wall, primed if necessary I will plaster (they are basically flat), again prime and paint. I would like not to fall off in six months. I covered the ceiling by the first layer with the AP-board waterproof paint TEKS, and without a primer, as the seller said, it was not necessary. Nothing slips! Not eaten! Beauty! Only the hands are tired ... often have to make breaks like this.
Soon I am going to make a second coat.
And on the walls still decided non-woven wallpaper with a pattern, eating find. Almost all of them under the plaster, and we want it with a picture. But not on all the walls. Deluxe mask out the remaining space, the color picks up. And if don’t find such wallpapers, I will paint everything.

[baltazar]

I am also in the process of permanent repairs. Therefore, you first need to put together old tiles, scrape the ceiling. I ordered to make a dry screed, we laid floor tiles. Ceilings between floors are thin, so my floor is not cold - it is warmed by the light of lower neighbors. After the floor we made a ceiling, windows and walls. I forgot the batteries we changed them when we removed the old floor.

[constructor]

Hello. Unfortunately, I am also the owner of a kitchen 6 sq. m and I try to learn more about the repairs and improvement of the premises (to be repaired). Well, as I am concerned, and where to put the gas column and a refrigerator under the window. So where is the picture and the results from bill? I would like to see everything to continue.

[expert]

Hello! We decided to make the repairs in the kitchen. Now it looks very shabby - terrible tiles, a poor linoleum. Can you suggest what kind of tiles to buy for the kitchen, where it is cheaper and better? And, of course, that looks nice!
Window is installed, and it is correct.
The wrong thing is that I glued badly the opening mechanism. As a result, one of the doors of window now closed due to construction dust is not as easy as the other, which I held at all times. About the floor I would like details: what order and what quantities. There are different ways.
A tile only for the apron, I think, it is wrong. I am tired of living in squalor. Ugly. Moreover, I tore off the slopes of the window and a tiler laid tiles.
For walls, doors, soffits and a cabinet under the window the master took 20 thousand rubles.

[Summer]

We are tired with a bath, everything was leaking, the pipes had to be changed, and the tiles began to desert in some places.
First, we decided to do everything ourselves, but nothing we could do. A waste of time and a lack of materials.
We called the team, which quickly changed pipes as we wanted. Tiles were laid not very fast, because we asked to align the wall and protect it from mold, the ceiling at the same time completely redone, there is still the little things. So, we need to live nicely for ourselves, a life is one.

[constructor]

The topic is mainly to people who want to shell out for whatever reason (do not trust anyone, on the principle that it is better than yourself no one will make) tiles DIY. I will show how to easily by one example, without any special measuring tools, to lay tiles evenly and to avoid many problems.
Any comments and suggestions, both from experienced and specialists are very welcome. Now let's begin, I should say that I was learned by one experienced professional tiler, and I use his experience to this day, and what I want for you.
We have a bathroom of a custom size, in which there is a 90% angle. In a photo 1 there is plan of apartment, and a second photo shows a flooded floor plate. It was decided by apartment owners not to line the walls (there somewhere a half of meter would increase), and to deepen the corner of bath in the wall photo 3.
Bath is installed on the legs under them planted a channel (the owner brought the remains from the country), as legged bolts very flimsy and decided to give them a solid fence, and left the door there will be an audit removable tile in a photo 5.
Next, go to the tiling, or rather to its nuances. Take the wall, at the most four corners pounding a dowel + a screw, pull between the upper and lower wiring / cords - what is available, and adjust them using the screws applying a simple plumb line (and it is known to have performed better any level) photo 4. Now we should have two perfectly vertical (plumb) stretched cords.
Then we take between and stretch the cord so that we can move on to our two vertical cords photos 6-7.
Ask the question: what do we win it?
The answer is that we have a permanent mobile beacon, which will not allow us to go off to the side, after seeing it everywhere, we will be littered with tiles or something to fill up the wall does not give a tile or a corner somewhere.
With this "device" there is no need to put 5 times the level that has the ability to make mistakes. It is mobile in the photo 8.

[bill]

Well, in principle it is clear – a vertical is set by two cords, the cord between them, we get a perfect plane. Do I understand the author's idea? These cords are not given tile, but simply its surface. i.e, it does not allow controlling the level of tiles horizontally, unless the two extremes to lay tiles and they had already drawn a horizontal line. i. e, use two horizontal cords.

[baltazar]

As for the vertical, everything is right and about the surface too. As for the horizontal. In my case it was a bath (it is clearly exposed to level), and I always start to glue the wall, which is adjacent to the bathroom. If we laid out exactly this wall, it just will not let us fill up the rest of the wall on the horizon, as if you want to cover, it will be a big gap between the corner tiles. And you can always hold a plumb line vertically and lay tile on it - it will not fill up too, because tiles are square.
There are new photos, but I can not post, or I have something wrong with an Internet, or a forum lag, I will try after the weekend.

[expert]

Smile). I think this idea can be revised. We don’t like to saw angles at 45 degrees). And everything seems to be good. That's just it seems that it does not have ceramic tiles judging by the size, and most likely calibrated? 10*10, 15*15 cm. You can use tiles horizontally or vertically. The smaller the surface, the smaller the size of tiles. You can use a mosaic but it more expensive than regular tiles. Usually in shopping malls, selling decorative materials, there is a designer who can choose options for tiling and stacking.

[Summer]

I understand that the tiles in the kitchen should be resistant to detergents. By design, I would like a dull to make cracks less noticeable. Could you tell me, for the apron, what size is better to take for a tile? 10.15 * 10 * 15cm. You can use tiles horizontally or vertically. The smaller the surface, the smaller the size of tiles. You can use a mosaic but it more expensive than regular tiles. Usually in shopping malls, selling decorative materials, there is a designer who can choose options for tiling and stacking. What you specifically smile? As for the corners to use 45 % I think it's harmful. I will explain why. 1. Never wash down without cleavage. If you do not remove the enamel just saw back or get too thick seam or too acute angle. I tried with 2 tile saws that are available, and even I tried to do manually with a grinder. 2. It is not safe. Because of chips or too sharp corners it is likely to get injured in the operation-cut. 3. Purely for my taste, chrome corners give their revival of both tiles and a room as it looks not so gray it looks and fits virtually any room, because in any room there is plumbing and it is generally chrome, so it will be fit. I do not use corners of another color as to pick up the right color is practically impossible, and yeah they look gray.
As for the tiles you know that those are brought up and so we work at) in this case kind of China made, the man bought the remains, he was satisfied with the price, there was no a calibration but the spread was not great most 2 mm. I brought similar tiles, there were 4 mm. I should fix tiles separately for each wall, as there were no variations seams.

[baltazar]

I encourage you to look at 2 corners without "consumer goods". And then compare the quality, beauty, safety seam. Everything is a matter of taste. But to state categorically that he was a bull shirt I wouldn’t be in your place. As for the equipment don’t say how do you work? How do you make cuts? An enamel is an enamel it could have cracks. Ps. even it would be better to post the photo after kickoff 45% of tile and a photo of a corner, and I'll show you how it looks with "consumer goods" and compare visually. (forget about security).

[bill]

The ingenuity smiled. In most cases, we have to face the standard bathrooms. That's for me, your idea of cords prompted the idea. While I will not reveal. As for the angles I make them with a grinder. And it is easier and faster fit than an emery. To lay tile yourself with buying professional equipment is not cost-effective it is easier and cheaper to hire for a one-time job a laser level that costs 5 + thousand rubles. Well, IMHO there is no sense to buy it for private traders.

[buldozer]

Hello! Now we have a house to make repairs. Our builders will file down tiles on the outside corners 45. The first time I see that whether I make everything right? It is not better to put butts? As it is seen in the photo, dark tiles overlap the light one.
Help me please. Now I install tiles in the kitchen. This is my first experience in this field. A couple of times I had to redo because in the process of laying it turned out that I had wall curves and sloping floors. I work slowly and only on weekends. But the work is still going. A little time and all tiles will be glued. I am interested in grout for joints. I liked the characteristics of epoxy grout but since I have no experience, I am afraid it would fail. I stopped on the color cement grout. But this is a kitchen island a grease and a dirt from the plates will fall. I was asked to add to the mixture a water glass. To make greater water resistance. And I found in the Internet the impregnation for stitches. What kind of staff to use? What to use and not to spoil the work. I will be grateful for your piece of advice.

[expert]

And in vain, the epoxy will achieve 100% what you are looking for. There's the basic conditions in any case not to breed in in quantities (just do not have time to develop it) and do not overdo it with the solvent otherwise dry (freeze) will be weekly. Everything is just a little bit-lit (1 square meter for example), struck at once tidy as it should be in the seam (then you will not work, it will freeze and you will not be able to use it.). The main thing if you decide to work with it, please, have a sponge.
PS I am not a manager and there is no need to advertise it, but I can assure you that in my opinion it's the best currently available in the market of grout.
Thanks I liked it too. But I looked at its "life" time. You have only forty minutes to jam and to clean the remains. If you miss the time, it will not peel. Manufacturers write so "application to have the skills". I have no experience. I work slowly and solemnly. Even I bought a tile adhesive that only forty minutes to freeze.

[bill]

A liquid glass is not your case, do not have time to jam. Yes, and it is not known as the grout will behave with it. The impregnation applied after drying of grout for joints. I read somewhere that the grout is mixed with the impregnation, but I did not do so. Basically, you get a hell of a mixture of strength. The choice is yours.
The impregnation creates a thin film of a joint surface, which does not allow the dirt to soak into the grout. Naturally, this does not alter the normal washing apron. The impregnation can be applied in 2-3 layers. But here we need a precision, since dried on a hot plate (especially in the rough) impregnating very difficult to remove. To complete the picture of materials, search the question at google.

Добавлено после 1 минута 25 секунд:
That is why I wrote to dilute in small quantities so that you have time to process it. To grout 1 square meter even with a break about 5 minutes. A half an hour to process and to wash the excess. If you are a little afraid I will begin with square floor tiles or 4-6 tiles depending on size. Devil is not so as it is painted. Just the manufacturer writes it warned that artists have never worked and bred the old-fashioned everything at once and then when they did not start screaming of a bad material. It actually requires a hard work, for example the cement-based medium-sized bath I clobbered for 3-4 hours, the epoxy took me a day at least. It is not recommended to peel the grout but a remover is very expensive.

[Summer]

Do not make an epoxy jointing. Not good. If the seam between tiles 2-3 mm what there will be a dirt? If there is so, then it is easily washed off. Yellowed with time, (if it is white) but you can brush it. And the epoxy paint can be removed only with tiles. If it is your first time I generally recommend using a simple mixture. I would recommend "KIILTO" Finland.

[constructor]

Greetings to members of the forum, tilers and dressers!
There is a modest experience of laying tiles on the kitchen floor. It is planned to independent finish of a bathroom. Here I took a mosaic I really like it. The Chinese budget version of glass mosaic type of "banner". I will be glued to the drywall. It says a lot about tiles, and very little about mosaic. I would be grateful if I get some answers to these questions:
There is a big difference, whether in technology facing the bathroom between tiles and mosaic?
Do adhesives compositions differ?
A thin mosaic thin – a special notched trowel is needed?
Many stitches and a lot of water in the shower: which grout is needed?
What else to look out for and what are the pitfalls when facing the bathroom mosaics?