log home maintenance information

[bill]

If you do not lose the time of shrinkage, i.e do not wait until the boards firmly stick to each other, then caulk easily with the wooden spades, just do them more . This is much easier than to perform feats. But, of course, if your house has not a full shrinkage, you can use timbers, but without a roof, but I call it to "plug the holes". There were so clever mates! They were going to make a primary caulking of a little house, trying to save on it. They did that job just with the wooden caulking. Only, if they do not have time to do the first part of the house until we collect a second, then later they threw that occupation as they could not score a tow in the slot, and the moss was hacked even by wooden tools. You can caulk a bath with timbers, maximum a one storied house. And you have a two storied house and beams 30 cm, to cover with a slate or a tile, then you couldn’t work normally even a week after the installation.
I have a couple of questions:
1) How long is a tow clogged and how to determine how much of it goes into the groove?
2) The tool as I understand is a common chisel?
3) How to determine the time of caulking to get between "the log house is already shrinked"?

[expert]

Hardly, the house shrinks well! Unless, of course, you will "load" hard-coated, for example tiles or even a slate, then it will be possible. In such house under the roof you can even hear how to "sit down"! So, I advise to cover a roof slate, it is "cheap and cheerful". Shiver lasts not less than 30 years, unless you walk on it all the time. And if it's still painted, then 50 years and its look is not worse. That's a kind of roof which is 3 years. The snow moves out not worse than from the iron, but it is accumulated on the slope, and moved out only when the temperature is +1 C. There another advantages: a good insulation (the rain is not heard)a waterproofing membrane is not required with a crate, but you can only use directly the roofing sheathing. Well, not a complicated repair, at least it will not flow.

[baltazar]

I need your help. The house is not a really chopped frame house but it is a timber house. We made caulking. Stitches after the rain are wet. I can’t find how to cover the seams? Further, the house will be hearted. How to protect joints right now?
I found here some options:
- a yacht varnish;
- a linseed oil or an oil paint. How do the best?

[buldozer]

But in the cup the gaps will be still produced by the process of shrinkage of the trees, and along the slot the builders didn’t laid perfectly. So, 90% the gaps will be in the slot gap! Accordingly, you can’t do without calking. Every log house should be caulked. This summer was so hot!! The log cabins are well dried. My father-in-low is a modeler, he works with the wood. He advises to cover the outside of the house from the external factors (with a fire-bio-protection). But under the coating layer the wood doesn’t breath. So, maybe there is no need to cover the inside? 2. You can begin caulking in the spring. When the house is caulked inside, it rises for 1 meter by 3-5 centimeters. That’s why I didn’t install windows.