log home wiring ideas

[Summer]

Dear man, I am lady. I need a little help in the form of advice (because I understand your rich experience, I was able to read all the information you wrote in this topic).
The situation is this: a timber frame house, it has been for 4 years, we decided this year to make it living, in reserve we have time until October (Siberia, frosts and so on).
After much searching on the recommendation of relatives we verbally agreed with electrician for a work (it has 15 years of experience, a high education, an experience in private homes).
Since I am not very good at electricity mildly speaking a very stupid person. He voiced an amount for materials (of course, followed up by checks).
The man had been working for 4 days (not a one day long), and then he informed me of the need to take away the family on vacation and come back in a week.
A week goes fast, I read a lot of information and now I am not very sure that the work is carried out in compliance with the regulations.
The whole bulk of the wiring (in a ripple PVC) placed under the ground of the second floor, when you go to the walls, a corrugation is just cut, the wires under a plaster. I found a mark VVG-APG, the second wire was VVG-P (3 * 2.5).
The transition from the floor to the wall is left unprotected, the wire is "naked." In this case, to the installation of a future power panel (it is not filled, the materials have not been bought) in the house there are 19 crimps with wires, 8 of them withdrawn to another power panel (in a future boiler room).
A photo available.
I understand that I write likely not clear because I am in confusion about whether it is necessary to continue working, or until it is too late to refuse services and to find another specialist. (A plaster was made only in one room of five).
On the one hand, the work is already done, and if it is made with disabilities, I think that a person can take some money from the unspent amount for materials and say “Good bye!”.
On the other hand, I build a house for myself and not for someone else, and I want to get it right, especially I do not want to fool around with the electrics.
Help me, please, I build my house along, so, I need a piece of advice.

[buldozer]

Now I do not have a plan in my hand (I don’t have the Internet at home, I am writing from work). So, in general 5 rooms each of them with two large ceiling lamps, 4 or 5 sockets. I am more alarmed about corrugation, a kind of octopus, I tried to throw it into the fire, it immediately doubled up. I do not see any junction box. They have not been even acquired. For the wooden house it is better when there are more cores without any junction boxes that go directly to an outlet. The fewer connections more reliable the scheme. If you are really so focused on reliability, the wiring in a wooden house should be installed in an iron pipe with the use of iron boxes. Electrical engineering companies decided for us all these problems with contacts. For a good contact adhesion, there is a welding, a lot of different clips.
And spend the extra wires to connect them to the machine is inexpedient! (If you really do not like the word "stupid")
(I hope that was not wrong with the word) The people called for a help! The human doubts the correctness of wiring in her home. So, let's talk on the merits, not to argue for the best. I refused junction boxes for the light, I just get down to the switch of the two wires coming and going to the lamp. I carefully cut along one wire on them to crack and fill with a terminal switch (define for yourself where is the phase and where is the zero) to turn off the phase.
The second wire in the switch box is connected together; it is up to you to decide - twisting, soldering, terminal, but not a WAGO. Two wires rise up, one after another, from the view that it is one wire.

[baltazar]

Here, I totally agree with you this is a drawdown on the wires or on screw terminals in the socket, which is unlikely, but the experiment is made incorrectly, it is necessary to measure directly on Wago, before and after, and go through the whole chain of connections of WAGO.
The only thing which you probably will not argue with me, is that a round thing connects badly something that has a flat area.
I have seen in my practice when a round copper wire was welded with a flat spring wago, I hope there is no need to explain.

[Summer]

Thank you for not being indifferent to my problem. As for a caulking of walls I say that they were caulked twice.
The money were given to the electrician on the materials, I didn’t give the money in advance for a work. BUT! The money was spent partly because the import filling plates were not purchased by him. I think that he will just take this unspent amount for the work, and I can nothing do with that. So, what can I do with it?
I made a decision; I will search now more thoroughly another builder. Of course, what’s a pity to waste time and money, but the decision is taken.
By the way, can someone tell me, during the absence of the electrician, the plasterer has plastered 2 rooms; the wiring from the walls in my decision was cleaned. Now, I guess in these two rooms to clean up the wiring under the plaster using grinders with a diamond blade.
Is it real? It was just impossible to call an electrician, but a plasterer and also will not wait for it all, if he leaves then he will not wait for you, and he is a good prof, I have been in his homes, the people loved him.
I guess there will be a lot of dirt, but the plasterer agrees to do a necessary work by a grinder. (Wall chasers as I understand it does not fit, an expensive tool, and nails in the shingles will not allow them to work).

[constructor]

The walls from timbers, no skins, no linings, just drill a big hole, stretch a wire, well insulate or put an additional tubing, an open wiring, dry bars, the wire is free? This has been done, but we need something to change or rather everything. Well a tube is a tube, if necessary it will be decided to do. I bought threaded sleeves, nuts, drilled a rod, inserted the eviction, on the one hand there is a nut, on the other hand there is a corner, I looked away – a full of crap, a beautiful wooden wall with a foreign body was not pretty. A work stopped I am thinking now what to do, what can I do? To cut the pipe and beat in to the wall, what's the point of the tube? The wire goes public on the wall - it is possible, in which case, the pipe is safe in the block? There is a week or two in the reserve, but not more, what do you think? Passes through the interior and exterior walls, partitions and a suspended ceiling must be carried out in a tube or an opening, which would provide the possibility of replacing the wiring. Passages of unarmoured cables and wires through walls and fire-resistant suspended ceilings must be made in a semi-solid metal or insulating rubber, polyvinyl tubes (uncut) or in pieces of a plastic pipe, and a combustible wall - in conduit enclosed in steel segments. The ends of the metal tubes are made necessarily with sleeves or funnels. Installing insulating pipes is necessary not only to ensure the replacement of entries, but also to enhance the insulation of an exposed wiring.
Passes can be open or closed. The opening ceremony of wires and cables is performed in buildings with wooden walls and ceilings.

[Summer]

And who would tell about the hidden wiring in a wooden house (a two-story garden house) made of a single seal in aluminum pipes? Much easier than steel to install, hold up to 650 degrees in a possible fire, and even the cable VVGngp 2 * 1.5 which doesn’t burn. A tube diameter of 16 mm, a wall thickness - 2 mm.

[expert]

It should be noted in my understanding of the State norms and codes, I do not think I am wrong, the implementation of a hidden wiring in a wooden house in steel tubes that do not require them to possess the ability of the localization and the thickness of walls is not standardized, it does not mean that these metal pipes can be made of a metal foil i.e. it is a quite certain gauge steel tubing with a wall thickness of concrete and no less!
So, it's not a metal pipe in all its versions, it is not metal pipe, it is not a metal flute, it is not copper, brass or aluminum tube, it is not even the Italian galvanized steel pipe with a wall thickness from 1.0 mm to 1.2 mm, it is not a steel cable VBbShv, although in a common sense, it is the most suitable for this purpose, though not in all cases, but in some cases, when the mortgage to get through the wood concrete from steel pipes conforming to RB and the use of steel junction boxes, this is the case here, and everything will be well, technologically and economically acceptable. A price for the armored cable no more than one and a half times higher than the price of not armored cable, that is, about 100 rubles per square meter, and the prices required steel boxes of 200 rubles for an unit and their number is acceptable, and on embedded pieces of steel pipes! Alternatively, in our case, this is a "double drywall", the distance between the layers for wiring. As for the exterior walls and the ceiling, then this option will pay for energy.