A "breathing" frame house

[baltazar]

For the theme of the breathing frame house, this option provides just that. But for me in order to reduce the cost:
A. The lining, and the use of dowel 30-40 mm should give the effect of lumber home. ie, to pick up any excess moisture, and then give it back to the room.
1 and 1/2. craft-paper
2/3. Ecowool cheaper just three times.
4. Yes
5. Not really necessary, but it is possible for a fortress.
6. Yes.
7. Yes.

[constructor]

1. Here, I am talking about – you certified (tested) one thing, and you produce another thing!.
It is up to the first "protector" of the rights of consumers - a flagrant violation of certification!.
2. Why it does not affect?. The input control of raw materials - is an overarching point!. What you put into the machine, the output will be the same. (and according to the ecowool, you do not even know what was laid)!. And these 30% ate these paper bags which have contained a fertilizer or something else?
3. Different manufacturers of supplements may be different. You say developing new recipes.
4. With this approach to the issue of production and observance of technological discipline – wait to order!. Let's look at the certificates and specifications!.
P/S: This is the reason I do not really trust the domestic producers (trust but verify)!.

[Summer]

Why you don’t want to build your house of logs or lumbers?.
The frame is definitely not suitable for you.
A foam is not environmentally friendly.
An ecowool I do not understand what is.
A glass wool doesn't fit.
A basalt wool – I will tell you as a secret, as well as the glass wool. Yes, there may be an increased radiation background.
as for the OSB - a dust and an asthma are in the long term, and with a formaldehyde some promblems again, suddenly it was from a softwood sawdust and it too much was glued.
What else can be used as a heater?.

[bill]

1. from what to build, I'll deal without your amateurish tips
2. An ecowool, a fiberboard and a plywood are great materials, if they are made in compliance with a technology. Price is not the sole criterion for selection.
A miser pays twice!.

[buldozer]

There are only few notes:
1. It absorbs a moisture very well, but it dries too quickly, but if you where the humidity is stagnant - turn green at once (a microscopic algae will grow).
2. Well, it is not very slightly dusty.
3. The structure is unstable. If it is wet, it is freezing quickly. First, about the greening I take my words back!. Only the light turns green. I completely forgot that we are talking about a heater inside the wall. Your photo of a cup of perlite confused.
And the rest, a perlite, a vermiculite, I really like them!. Very! When I chose a heater for a long time I staring at them. I was not even scared by a hygroscopic, and their rapid caulking. I talk with them for a long time and a lot. Well, they are quickly destroyed, and that's it!. Especially a perlite. I have no idea how to fill in the walls. Any vibration, wetting - and will be cracks under the horizontal elements of the framework. Please note that these materials have been known for a long time ago, and produce them in our country a lot, and the price is quite reasonable. But something they are not massively used as the insulation in a frame. Perhaps, there is in this kind of homespun truth.

[buldozer]

This group can be still expanded by including the Tripoli. It was known, in my opinion, as a wonderful insulation, but we can not hear anything now about it.
And I think in the overlap it is quite possible to fill a reserve for subsidence (not under the walls). I am going to fill a vermiculite as an insulation to pour around the chimneys.
Much more promising option it seems to me to use them together with a binder such as a cement. Like an arbol. Mixed, laid down in the framework, it grabbed and will not go anywhere, will not chrink.
As the insulation it is still possible to consider:
A foam glass crumb (as opposed to a foam glass it is well-vapor permeable).
A Penoizol (I do not know anything about it).

[constructor]

Dear buldozer, for your reply, I said to you "thank you", however, I do not think it is the ultimate truth. Therefore, I hope to get an answer from the other no less distinguished members of this forum. Once again I ask you for forgiveness for what I was hoping for the additional information after your comprehensive answer!.

[buldozer]

My comment is dictated entirely by your reaction to the amount of information and opinions provided by reputable forum participants, and in no case it had the desire to limit your desire to find the right answers.
However, quench my curiosity, what is the number or the percentage of registered users on the forum will be sufficient for the formation of your position on the issues raised?.
What is the criterion of "ultimate truth" is suitable for you in the evaluation of posts?.
Agree with me somewhat wasteful to spend time on response, which then "will not count" for itself.

[Summer]

I am interesting in opinions of any member of the forum, which is expressed on the designated topic, and more these opinions, better it will be. However, it seems to me that the issue involved has no clear answer as there are many technologies and materials. Therefore, to claim the ultimate truth nobody can.
I propose to stop this discussion, as it is not relevant to the topic.
PS: I think your answer is quite comprehensive and very interesting. Once again thank you for your participation.

[bill]

Architects considering the project in the sheets are fools, not working, and just willing to express their ambitions in the project, but only "slaves" work.
All firms cheat the clients and hold customers for the fools.
Absolutely everybody is trying to throw the poor customer, and he by his feeble mind can’t read a state standard or SNIP, but he, poor, had his tongue cut off. He will be afraid to ask an architect.
And then like a prince on a white horse, Mr. Kuryshev, it is everything thought out, and everytheing is the best, he doesn't throw and evyrhing makes right, most thoughtful projects, etc.
Everything is contained on this site by very severe and imperious tone, as I repeat, "I am ` D Aratanyan and you are a shit".
P.S. it is a very funny thing, after all these passages, he is looking for the architects.

[baltazar]

I read the whole topic and didn’t find the answer to my burning question. The problem of dampness was been discussed many times, but nothing about the problem of dryness.
Tell me, please, if I have a frame house: a drywall, an ecowool and a vapor barrier only in the bathrooms, will I have a problem with an excessive dryness (now on the hygrometer 22%)?
Some experts say as I have the whole frame is too permeable, no embedded damper on a forced-air heating will not work and it was necessary to insulate the whole house, not just only bathrooms. And you can only save the situation with an oil paint and a vinyl wallpaper as an interior finish.

[constructor]

The problem is not in a house "pie", but in the air heating systems: where is an additional air intake and how much is in percentage terms, a temperature and a velocity of circulation, there is a heat exchanger and a humidifier, etc. A complexity of the competent organization of air heating system (but not a high price, as many people believe) is the cause of its low prevalence. I met much less frequently skilled workers than competent builders.

[Summer]

An additional air 20% is provided from the street (and where else?), But I still closed it. The thermostat mostly is exposed for 20-22 degrees, And how to determine a velocity of circulation?. I only know that there the oven was set at low. A heat exchanger has not been provided, but I had planned to use a humidifier, but I didn’t know what kind of.
Do you think a humidifier in my case, solve the problem, and what will you advise?.

[baltazar]

If you close an additional fence (there is no heat recovery) - this is very bad because you desiccate the air inside. Looking for specialists of a normal air heating in your region to adjust an additional air fence, a boiler temperature and a fan speed, a chasing air. The model of humidifier depends on the project of the heating system (volume space, the model of the boiler, etc.) and, accordingly, the amount of intake air addition (with or without a heat recovery).
PS: do not touch the walls - they are not to blame!.

[Summer]

Thank you very much for your advice.
I closed the air hole by a sintipon because this hole wasn’t closed by the fence, and suddenly the mouse will climb up there?. Tomorrow I will put some temporary grid and will open the fence. There, inside, there is still a controlled valve, which covers the hole, but for some reason (maybe from a cold) it does not work.

[bill]

I have an American gas furnace in a boiler in the basement, an air heating. I consider a dryness as a problem, my skin can not tolerate it.
And with convectors, perhaps, it is more dryer than I have.
My thermostat is on the ground floor, so if there to keep windows on a ventilation, the heating will not be switched off. And in the bedroom on the second floor, I sleep with an open window, so it is very comfortable.
But sure, when I move into the house permanently, I will include a humidifier.

[buldozer]

And what is the thickness of cellulose fibre?
I thought that ecowool against moisture, at least - an analog of the tree. And now it turns out that I'm missing something, somewhere is not well understood. Or, perhaps, in a wooden house with plasterboard internally to a similar pattern?
Either a mode of the air heating, I suppose?.
What's the catch?
I do not understand.
I thought about it and came to the conclusion that the problem is in the air gap between a drywall and a fiberboard. A capillary wall moisture can not penetrate further into a steam and goes back to the wall!
A conclusion – an air layer is unacceptable.
Either to make the water transfer from the gap with the aid of the flow inside the convection. To make a drywall perforation above and below. At least make the test and see what is the air humidity?.
I reiterate the question:
The air moisture air is a steam, under the influence of partial pressure (there is more vapor in the air at home then outside) which goes out and reaches the dew point, then condenses on the wall.
The partial pressure only influences on a vapor. And the water in the wall by the capillaries is directed toward the greatest evaporation. Outside, the relative humidity in winter is high, a evaporation is low, so all the conditions for evaporation are inside.
Thus, the moisture is on the wall fiberboard and it evaporates there. A vapot couldn’t get inside. The moisture changes direction again!. The partial pressure send it back to the wall.
I do not know what about the ecowool, but here are the framework conditions, and they are not savory.

[buldozer]

The problem is in the air heating, too dried air, and the influx of new fresh air is insufficient. Is it necessary to ensure a flow of moist air from the street (but it's a heat loss and it is undesirable a heat exchanger channel) or to put a humidifier.

[Summer]

I have between the MDF and a plasterboard a gap of 7 cm. The whole ripple electrician should have been somewhere hiden, and the walls were aligned, as a framework was led by the wind. Is this because the gap effect on air drying?. Tell us, in practice, how many channels of humidifier increases the humidity?.

[bill]

Good afternoon, guys!
Objective: To insulate the attic floor of 50 sq. m for permanent residence.
I plan to:
1. To lay the profiled bars 200 x 200 mm on the ends of the attic floor, directly facing the street. Thus 25% of walls of the premises will be from the wood.
2. Wood windows will be also make an air exchange.
3. The rest of the walls: a siding (or a block-house), a vapor barrier, and min. an ecowool.
4. Finishing of wood surfaces with a minimal use of synthetic materials.
I think these techniques can help to create a good microclimate. I ask for your comments.

P.S. 1st floor –a timber house, the inside lined with a clapboard. Everybody likes it very much.