ideas for log home interiors

[Summer]

The coverage of old doors with veneer is a very decent look after restoration! And this is the option you are asking about. This system consists of two components, and has the effect of wood on the painted surface. Check the list of systems, such as Brushwood Basecoat and Brushwood Topcoat. They create a surface that mimics wood. I saw the finished version, it is worthy of coverage. I think in a company store there will be samples I can’t make pics, as we have already made repairs after that, but when in the early nineties, with a little money I made repairs in the apartment, which was shared 40 years, I burned an old door with a blowtorch, a paint (all archaeological layers of last tenants) took off with a spatula, so managed to get to the wood, there were oak doors from a solid wood and a thick plywood inserted inside. If we shouldn’t to plaster the point of connection of locks numerous residents turn this place to the loops, it can be sanded and varnished, or what you want for the structure, but because of the putty had to paint it.
We painted with a matte paint on plywood and even inside the door we nailed plywood. We get a paneled type. Frames and glazing beads (screwed a new one) were painted in a different tone. The doors were milky beige, but the bead and trim as much baked milk. None of his friends and even their former neighbors knew, they thought that they changed. And when a couple of years ago made a big repair and put the door "as all", the older generation was very mourn that such wonderful doors thrown.
That, and I have the same beige bath.

[buldozer]

It seems to me, judging by the photos, the volume of the apartment, after all, would like to see a light door. And therefore, it is better to take this reference. If the doors are smooth, then make them more expressive and textured, you can use a plywood (sanded or milled edge) of different width wooden layout (there is a range in any market), a new furniture. In addition, this version is quite affordable if restore your own.
Yes, and more. After all, along with the door you have to bring to mind the door frame. And in what condition it will be after it is removed from paint? If it is not is suitable for varnishing, then covering veneer doors can hardly be discussed. Because, you wrote that you can’t replace the box and cover it with veneer is very time consuming and requires a certain skill process.
And, I think, in your case, it is certainly not necessary to use a surface coating technology wood from Dulux. Since the bath door out into the hallway, it will often be necessary to touch and cling, and therefore there will need to periodically update it with all the attendant problems.

[baltazar]

I want to make a shelf in the closet, on the wall behind the toilet. Width 80 cm, narrow shelves as I think 30 cm. But the problem is that the walls are "slate" - so called. i.e. their thickness is about 10 mm. Maybe someone knows how to mount shelfs? By the way on the photo to repair a faucet see what a wall, there is a hole, it is visible thickness. But I used the recommendation of how best to make these shelves. Well, that is whether to fix at the outset or on the bars or on the corners, or whatever... I'm doing everything myself, without the involvement of other forces. And I am not very good at it.
That's kind of my door, and then we'll see a box, and tried to take a picture closer to the surface itself was visible.

[bill]

I'll begin with the shelves! Some wedges, I think, have no meaning. Since I have just made shelves in the designated place, I can recommend two options.
The first option. If you have a bathroom wall cabinet that hides communications, we can offer the use wall tires with consoles. Very convenient system for regulated shelves. 2 tires are mounted parallel to the wall, in your case, using dowels butterfly. A console is inserted into the tire at the height you need. The length of consoles can be different, depending on the width of the shelves (from 10-12cm 50-55 cm). Here is a version from IKEA, but I bought in OBI as there's a lot choice in length and color (white, brown, black) and tires, and consoles. Unfortunately, I throw price tags, but, in my opinion, the prices OBI and IKEA are approximately the same.
The second option. Use consoles in pairs on each shelf. When attaching to use as an anchor tie. There are options of consoles below sold in any market.
P.S. All this is quite a budget option. And it is safe to install itself. Select an option and I have a prompt to do it easier, so that you are not very fit. Yes, still, the two mounting options withstand a decent weight bench with the content. And a wall will stand shelves.

[baltazar]

I looked at your doors. I had the same. To tear off the paint is very hard, and it may be a veneer, which can delaminate. I can buy masking tape to seal the light and skirting. A bumpers and cases still to tear and to paint. And this is the size of the laminated hardboard doors with a picture is also possible.

[buldozer]

A familiar door construction. The engineering marvel, just like the box of asbestos cement sheets. I have something similar. And once again now doing repairs. I also thought about the question. But even if the door can be changed, the shoals themselves look terrible, and restore the door frame so that it was like a new - that is still processing. So, my door with a box is already in a trash. I bought a new door and a little decorated, I put a new box. If this is interesting, I can take picture and tell you how to do it.
To attach something that is not very heavy on the wall of asbestos can be conventional screws for metal (with a common thread pitch). For example, if the screw of 3.5, 2.0, and drilled a hole screwed by a screwdriver or a drill. Holds railroad!
The design, in fact, is a miracle of 60s. The box can’t be changed as we made repairs in the bathroom. Well, I do not want to demolish something. First, I thought to change the doors, but their size is so stupid, which is also somewhat problematic. Therefore, the question has risen of the restoration. I don’t want to use a foil. A rattan? ... I'm afraid that for four doors - it will be a very expensive work.
Paint is removed easily from the wood. I took off the paint from asbestos cement sheets in the bathroom; that was harder, because the list should be still warm, but the wood is warming immediately. I bought in the OBI, the company called "Bort", its price - a thousand rubles. But if the wood is not smooth, then I do not know whether the paint comes off of small dimples. With smooth boards paint removed just in flight. To clean the door from paint, plaster it and paint then?

[constructor]

Now, let's speak about the door. It is a wooden frame with the door leaf of hardboard; it is not even plywood. And the box is doubled, just above is a single casing. It would be possible to cut holes in the hinge side, insert blocks, plywood, layout and new door beadings to change relief of doors ... But you, as I understand, you are going to do by yourself? And will you have the energy and patience for this job? Therefore, my suggestion is so.
1. Carry out all the processing, mostly on wooden surfaces, i.e. on a box and a door frame. The leaf itself from thin plywood or hardboard should be sand by the fine sandpaper wrapped around the bar, but of course, if it is not deformed so much.
2. If there is a possibility (of physical force in the form of a neighbor, plumber, janitor), remove the door from its hinges. Hinges, handles should be removed.
3. If you do not use a heat gun, you can, as it has been mentioned before, use tape or surface grinding machines. It is not necessarily to remove a cover to a bare wood, the main thing it to level the surface. Or, you can use to remove the old paint. To buy is not a problem; get our, Petersburg tool "Shredder of coatings B-52". The can (0.85 kg) costs in OBI 110 rubles. For two doors you need about 2 cans. Used the same way as the company Dufay, the effect is the same, but the price is much higher. If there is a manual cycle, it will be more convenient to work than a spatula. It costs from 30 to 70 rubles. A good thing and it can be useful at home. There is also a triangular shape, which is perpendicular to the plane of the triangle is attached to the handle. When working wear heavy rubber gloves.
4. Then grind wood surfaces. If you can’t take a tool then you can rent it, use the bar, wrapped on cloth.
5. We pass on wood filler (preferably acrylic in tubes) to all places of defects or damage. Once it has dried, grind!
6. Now, you can use polyurethane panels and lining, if there is a desire to somehow change the topography of the door itself. They are lightweight and are mounted on the universal glue directly on the canvas.
7. Now paint in two coats of semi-gloss enamel on any wood with intermediate grinding, sanding my best to remove the wood rise fibers. More tips: the glossy and matte enamel should be avoided because of glossy, though useful for cleaning and does not absorb the dust, but beautifully reveals defects and a matt gloss hides defects very well, but very easily soiled and less clean. Do not paint with brushes (only for bedding angles). They have virtually no opportunity to put a high-quality coverage, take a small (5-6 cm for the box and the door frame) and medium (15-20 cm for fabric) velour rollers. First, beautifully cleaned and stored in mineral solvents between paintings (as opposed to foam). Secondly, provide a qualitative coating without effect of "shagreen" (as opposed to fur and nylon).
8. As it has been written above, hinges and other accessories must be chosen with offset mounting holes relative to the former. And in the former hole after removing the paint to score a wooden dowel. That's all.

[Summer]

I have also thought about it, but I have not yet studied the range. This tool is not much stink? I do want to change doors. So, it is real! cool! As I understand I can find almost everything I need in OBI? Well done!

[bill]

If there are no processing skills for wooden surfaces with the aid of nozzles on the drill, it is better not to try and come up with nothing. This must be done with hand-grinding machines, an eccentric type with a guaranteed result. You are not going to buy a tool specifically for a single use. It's like that cause of specially trained people. But my approach to the issue is precisely to try minimizing the cost. Naturally, it makes a specialist acrylic liner. The rest I want to do with my own without buying any tools.

[expert]

This tool does not smell, but the windows must be kept open, a strong acid gives evaporation. Prepare three pairs of rubber gloves. Apply only with a brush with natural bristles.
Overlays can be in OBI or building shops, but there are in specialized stores selling polyurethane moldings, plates, columns, plinths, etc. etc.
When you watch the rollers, note that the mats are hard, and even then I was tried to sell the foam roller with spraying under velour. A very, very funny consultant considered it long and argued that it is suede. As a result I had to pick off a little edge to show what kind of material they gave me as velour. All foam rollers can be compressed.

[constructor]

A standard for the door for a bath / a toilet 60 x 198-200 cm, Measure the inner box size and you will see that these doors will easy enter it, even with the door hinges. So, you can safely go to the market or to the shop to pick up a tape measure and doors are similar in size and price.
At the bottom, between the door and the floor / nut the gap of 2 cm is made at building for a natural ventilation of apartment. After all, the air intake vents, we are in a bathroom, a toilet and a kitchen. But, as the practice shows, the system is still not working, so, nothing bad will happen if the gap becomes much narrower.
In extreme cases, it can trim the nut a little to allow a free travel of door. There is a special composition (emulsion) in the paint. It is added and mixed in it. With a varying density and a speed of drying (10 minutes) a relief is formed almost indistinguishable from natural (I made myself), respectively, a special spatula in our department of paints for sale. A nice look. Try to find it and you will not regret!

[Summer]

As for the stocks in the bathroom in case of asbestos box.
I've made for whole 20 minutes and have painted as I could.
The first figure shows in the plan (a plan view in section), what has happened when I took off the door with the old jambs. A little out of scale, but, I think, is clear. In my report, there is a corresponding photo.
The second and third pictures show how I made jambs and casings to the bare-cement walls. The other options I have found. New door boxes under this configuration are not sold. I made of profiled timbers. It's too much.
In the pics:
1. cants
2. trims
3. tight casings
4. asbestos cement sheets
5. the bars between them
6. tiles
7. a plastic inner corner.

It is not possible to end up repairs, you can stop for a while. After New Year’s holidays I will begin again. I have too many ideas about doors. I'll have to sit down, write everything, and then select the right option. Well, go ahead! What sort of structure, what is the firm and how to apply, they will get the output, whether it is necessary to remove an old paint before painting, the view of doors is in the pic. I will be very pleased if you tell us about such great look!

[bill]

What do we have today? A decision. First, we will change the doors to the rooms, I want to without having to replace the door boxes. We will not be able to restore them. But according to the appearance, the door to a bathroom and a toilet we will be able to restore somehow. I think it will be easier. The door inside the bathroom and the toilet can be masked off by mats (polyurethane perforated mats sold in markets and OBI). A technology: the door removed, twist the knob, the door surface spread with a glue (thick), stick the mat, cut the excess, to the ends of the plastic ends of the stick (corners for ceramic tile or plastic moldings), to hang the door and tie door handles. The outer side of the door can be papered by the plastic (a plastic for furniture in the Internet) in any desired color. A technology: the door removed, twist the handle, measure the plastic, cut it, spread the glue on the door, apply the plastic then press and tie door handles. Butt doors (Le roi, OBI ) can be paint or putty.
Good luck!

[Summer]

Door 60 * 198, ceiling tiles, as I recall 50 cm. It turns out that 10 cm of extra ...Should I cut tiles? or make edging for 5 cm on each side? To cut – the beauty will be gone. And are you sure that you will find a sheet, just the same width? (The height of the piano does not play, it is sawn at once). Doors "non-standard / custom" made are more expensive than your break down, repair the broken walls and put all new. So, we have to ventilate the question, how much will it cost the door under the personal order? And what it would cost to break everything, and put a standard box. Quite possibly, the second option will be cheaper. Especially, under the standard and then it will be easy to change the door, if you like.

[expert]

If you remove the old door box, the walls will be OK (by the door the wall consists of two sheets of slate, and it is sandwiched between a piece of wood about an inch thick, it is attached by the box at least in my case). Checked up!
The old box is removed and is put a new door! The door installers have made 5 doors for 1 day, including 2 bathrooms doors of a similar design.
IMHO: It is necessary to change it. Nothing happen with the bathroom repair if nothing is attached to the old box. I suffered long but then I decided to replace all the doors, though I didn’t call door installers and I measured the doors, ordered my favorite model on the market, I ordered the doors with the installation, but the installer sucks, eventually I found other installers. If it is still true: recently I had the idea to paint the door in dark in the bedroom, which was renovated, designed in bright colors. There is such paint, such as the U.S., aerosol, from is a set of two cylinders with the effect of cracking.

[baltazar]

I also want to repair the door ... This topic considered a method of applying veneer on the door, is it possible to replace the thin veneer with a plywood? The door is smooth. What is the best way to attach the plywood to the door? With the glue? Maybe, somebody has such experience.

[Summer]

Ideas for decorating our favorite country homes. The idea to create this theme emerged unexpectedly. I revised pictures of my house. The thought came to mind, how the house has changed. For 10 years, a furniture, curtains on the windows, pictures on the walls, flowers - natural and artificial, some cushions, napkins, supports for flowers and a lot of small things that make a house a really house. They make the house cozy and decorate it. We select items by our taste; they are an expression of our "I" saying about our taste. We make them with our hands, shop them, we bring out of traveling. They are an integral part of our house. I would like to share in this forum theme the ideas of interior design of their homes, and tell the history of the emergence of any interior. I hope the theme will be useful to all and we will find in it new ideas. Firstly, some examples of wall decor in my house. A little about each. Two paintings appeared in the house after a trip to Istanbul. They were bought directly in the artist’s shop, performed on a fish skin in black ink, I packaged them in Moscow. In the second photo the old icon, it was brought out of the Pskov region that was has been restored. My idea was just placing it in the frame. The third photo depicts a painted wall on the third floor. It is the place for the young and also room for a game of table tennis. A friend of my son painted graffiti.

[bill]

Even at the stage of designing the home you already imagine how to place the furniture, where to hang a chandelier to make properly the wiring, what rods are what blind to the correct color of doors and walls wallpaper pick. And it's all decorated. Therefore, we think of it as the foundation has been laid. At least, I had so.

[Summer]

The fact that about the site decoration there are a lot of themes. I would like you to send home decor ideas and adjacent areas: balconies, patios, porches, and so many of you probably wondering which was the home of the beginning and changed with time. The fact that I have the initial stage and it would be useful to learn about home decoration as exterior and inside. That is not the interior, and decorating. And furnish all items in the house and on the terrace. For example, through-arches, niches for books and all sorts of knick-knacks, etc. All of this there is a lot of different topics here and I would like to combine them into one. And, now you can buy everything with money, even the ideas, but to make by our own hands it is still interesting. In the summer I want to decorate the house, not only inside but also outside. Some of my pots of flowers this year failed. I like to set the pots on different levels. I think flowers look more profitable so. I have a lot of different stands.
I have admired for a long time my pots and vases everywhere ... But how to fasten them on the siding? I've hinted to decorate the house outside, but my husband said not spoil the walls((! ...
And in the inside I have bare walls. That's all that "immobility". I go for a walk very seldom, and in the countryside you can’t find a decor, so for a year almost we live without the "decorations" but I really want to dilute with the pictures and different things the boredom of wood...

[baltazar]

And I do not fix them on the siding. Most are on the floor and stands. And those that are hanging, they are attached to the clypeus. I try not to touch the siding. And if something on it hang, it is necessary not to the screw fastening in the siding but to make the hole bigger so it can (the siding) "breathe" and this hole is already mounting. It is very cozy in my house! That’s why I opened the topic.