The lake house in the country.

[bill]

Good afternoon. I have a small question, what program did you use for calculations and drawings and what are their features?
Yours, bill.

[constructor]

Calculations were done on a calculator, surrounded by the normative documents and recommendations, ours and import. The drawings were done in “Visio” I used to work on it before, although it is not really suitable for this purpose. I tried “sketchup” but I did not like it, I liked an “arhicad”, but it was too late to start working with it, athe great part of the working papers were done in “Visio”, I did not want to redo them, there was not enough time.
Although, the “arhicad” rocks, of course. It is rather simple and intuitive.
We have very strong winds, and therefore we accumulate the strength. And thanks for the compliment!
A few more walls were trimmed.
Damn, what a cold north wind we have, especially when you are working on the northern facade of 8 meters above the earth ...
And what an ergonomics of the apexes of the place on the front!
...

[buldozer]

Why do you have air holes in the grillage))?. Is there such gap between the grillage and a level surface?
By the way, there is no need to trim a casing with a material. If you carefully pour the grillage, the shuttering virtually will no dirty outside, and the inside a concrete is easily behind ... It seems to me, the question of the compaction .. You can not fear to use the bayonet))
In general – it is oversome!! I iked your foundation. It is similar to the idea of IPB, but you do not to drill these holes for the posts. For the log frame, in my opinion, it is the best option. Quick and inexpensive!!.

[constructor]

The air holes are needed!. The grillage will be trimmed with a material to the ground, as if to make the air holes under the grillage, then, they will be too low, and in winter they just will be still covered by the snow!. And, so they have not particularly a high cost, especially from the front.
I paved the shuttering with a film in order the milk would not to depart from a concrete through the cracks of the grillage!. And the boards collect the moisture, and more wet the concrete, than it’s better!
Thanks for the compliment! By the way, today, we completed the planking and finally removed the forest, tomorrow I will post new pictures.!
We will make a facade in spring, and then somehow it/ s getting colder on the street ...
We trimmed all the walls by the boards, than we hemmed the overhangs for the future soffit, and "inserted" windows from a polyethylene. In coming days we will prepare the door and make a ceiling on the terrace.
And winter is coming soon!!

[Summer]

Tell me, please why do you choose a “Tyvek” under the roof? Is it a conscious chose?. I've never used it, whether it makes a sense to overpay nearly tree times for the “Tyvek” ...?

[constructor]

The question is almost religious!
The fact is that a “Tyvek” is not layered in a thickness, and it is twisted of the fibers, so it is very sturdy and solid. To break it is not easy, coz I tried.

[constructor]

It is too hard to break a reinforced tape, but there is one moment! It consists of several layers that are glued together. Since the film is under the roof and proves some great fluctuations of a temperature day and night. Accordingly, the film begins to delaminate and lose its properties.
Different people speak differently, but I decided not to check how many years it delaminated for 3 or 10. Suddenly, even after 10 years, and it will blow the heat from the heater, and God forbid a leak somewhere... brrr.
He took the “Tyvek” as not to torment afterwards.
By the way, I tested “Tyvek” by this device with a column of water above the film and the pressure from below. It works good. The water goes down and doesn’t leak!!. Other membranes are not checked. Over the weekend, we stitched a ceiling on the terrace. We sewed up the remnants of the boards and OSB with what I found at hand. We also made a temporary door from the “honest” people, but with a lock. I closed the dormer windows of two cold attics by the grid. But then, again, we planted strawberries, another 72 bushes. Now, we have more than 200 pieces. Let's see if we have enough strawberries now ...

[baltazar]

Will you cover the overhangs?
I had a lot of flies through the unsecured siding wall.

[bill]

It’s not easy!! .... hmm ... we both tried to tear a strip of 15 cm wide. And we could not do it? but we are strong enough. It is true, that we had a “Tyvek solid”. I do not know. We haven’t such bright material even on sale.
And did you paint the house yourself?. I do not understand the meaning of a such break of the roof. Costs are more, and the area is smaller. Or just because you like it?

There are few wentilation tubes on the roof. One tube covers 5 square meters of the roof. It’s easier to make a vent ridge. It’s easy to install. And there is not enough ventilation for at least the standard. But, in fact, it may be enough. And these are tubes for the home ventilation?
Damn, a temporary structure!!

[constructor]

I will trim the overhangs with the soffit, the front and wind boards – by the siding, there are some of them that fit in width to me.
But the soffit and the siding will bw the next season.
We are not a lot of flies, but they are flying inside but as soon as the sun rises and everybody wants to fly out the dormers.
Yeah.. the “Tyvek” is definitely sturdy!. Of course, we did not try to tear it, but ...
I have a produced Tyvek for SenGoben (Isover), and therefore there is an unusual appearance. And, in fact, it is a simple “Tyvek Soft”.
The tubes of ventilation - it's for the ventilation of the house, cellars and a sewage - 3 pieces.
For the ventilation of the roof there are aerators, - one for each ramp (small boxes).
About one tube of 5 meters - you got a little heated, for 70 we install one piece.
As for me, I have the biggest chute of 35 square meters, the others are less. A ventilation gap between “Tyvek” and OSB is 40 mm.
As for the shape of the roof and the house, then yeahh, it’s my own project. Two slopes, because the foundation consists of two parts. The answer to the complexity is just a replica " Damn, a temporary structure!!". First, there was the foundation for the outhouse, then we thought a little bit, then completed the foundation under the porch and the terrace. After that, we decided that in the country we do not need a big house and it will be a summer cottage.
Accordingly, I do not risk to make a total roof on different foundations.
And plenty of space for the dacha (IMHO):
- A porch / entrance hall and a terrace - 10 sq.m.
- A kitchen about 12 meters,
- 3 rooms - 12, 12 and 10 sq.m.
- A shower and a toilet - 3 meters,
- A toilet in the attic of 1.5 sq.m.
This is not the outhouse, and it’s the country house. We ought to rename the topic ...

[buldozer]

Rafters over an extension of 50 * 200 it’s interesting, of course, but this stuff left, should we saw it or what?. This is the nanotechnology will be in action!.

[constructor]

Here, once again I looked up into the directory “Vilpe” (SK Tuote OY).
They write that for the airing 100 sq.m. of the roof, you need 250 sq. cm of vents.
The area of open cross-section elements “Huopa KTV”, which are standing in my house (one for each ramp) - 150 sq. cm
Totally, we have 100sq.m .* (150/250) = 60 meters.
The catalog says that one element is placed at 50-100 meters depending on the design of the roof.
By the way, about 5 meters on each slope are gabled overhangs, which will be filed by the perforated soffit, so, the area of the biggest skate under our roof for the ventilation through an aerator is about 30 sq.m.
The upper sloping ramp is 25 sq.m.
And, the bottom slope is warmed only by a half, and “Tyvek” is laying just under the half. The second part under the terrace will be aired with a cold attic. So, there is no question at all, the aerator operates only 13 sq.m.

Accoding to all above, the problems with a ventilation of the under-roof space was not seen.
Will you correct me if I missed something!!.

[Summer]

And it is possible to ask you to post a reference of “Villepin”? And if you have one item?. It turns out that the timber is with the ventilation gaps?. otherwise how the air will get out of each section?.

[constructor]

sorry, but I have a paper catalogue...
I think you can find in the internet, the description of the item by name. This description is just written about the area.
On a lath there is a grillage of longitudinal purlins. And, there is OSB on it.
Well, 24 was acquired.
3 cubes of a curved and bent wood was left.
2 - 2.5 cubes are still remains good.
Total - 18-19 cubes.
Not so much, considering all features of the design. The simple paralellepiped certainly less than would be gone ...

[expert]

I agree with you.
If you remove the outer sheathing and replace it with any sheeting (OSB, DSP, etc.), even taking into account the non-standard architectural solutions, than we will get the average rate for the normal carcass.

[Summer]

I just wonna say it!... Thank you, dear.

[constructor]

- Frankly, when we decided to build a house and not a service bulding, we wanted something unusual.
It turned out that something medium is not given, just you like it or not...
You must calculate ...you need some time and the access to the home bookkeeping, and it is, alas, not now ...
By the way, a three-dimensional design project appeared, how the house will look after a finishing, here (in the lower right corner):

[constructor]

I can't read a reference now coz I'm in a train, I’ll have a look later.
As for the ventilation, on the lower slope, there is the under-roof space with an aerator, the left side with the membrane, combined with the right side of the space ventilated through the gable air from the cold attic, there will be a wind even if the aerator is covered but, there, at the window, so you can sweep away the snow if you want.
Actually, I just bought this aerator during a roofing work and in a hurry I fogot about the fact that I planned a tube of 300 mm.
Well, nothing critical.
as it sounds strange, but I was as a designer, a planner, a foreman, a dispatcher and a foreman, a worker /a laborer, etc...
Periodically, I was helped by a good friend and my father- in -law in his spare time.
Thanks for the compliment!
11 545 USD – It’s a cost of the house from a scratch.
35% of that money were the cost of the roofing materials without “Tyvek” + bitumen + all accessories and fasteners.
A plumbing and a design + an electricity work are not included in this amount. The cellar is also not included - it costs about $ 900 .

For the work on the house I did not pay anyone.
That's the estimate.
You are a little bit late with the answer, my dear!
I used bricks and I made a right decision, but still I reinforced every fourth series by VR 5 mm in two rods.
So, nothing will go out certainly, this summer lodge is light, and a powerful grillage can hardly sag at this point or burst ...
By the way, there are some pictures and everything is in sight.

[baltazar]

I have just wrote until the end.
From my father two cellars left under the garden house, so, here is one in a half-brick and other one is from a brick. In fact, that in the house of a half-brick, the walls kicked inside, but not from the pillars of the foundation. I made in this cellar a hole, put the pump station and made a bandage for the walls. But still I am afraid that it will collapse. The house that is from the brick looks great!!. Both cellars are about 30 years.

[constructor]

It’s a little late, but I started the waterproofing terraces, covered with OSB-3.
I was looking for a solution for a long time and how to do it properly taking into account the "appearance" of terraces.
The informed decision was prompted by the specialists EKSO (for which a special thank to them):
1. I shuted all the seams with a sealant Gipersil-25LM.
2. I covered the entire surface of the liquid polyurethane membrane “Giperdesmo” with an accelerator of a polymerization in 2 layers with an interval of a day (It’s not easy to lay the first layer when it's cold). A consumption in fact is slightly less than 14 kg per 10 sqm in two layers.
3. I poured a sand on the second wet layer (to improve the adhesion to the future screed downhill).

Then I plan to fill the tie with a slope of about 1.5%. I’m planning to add in a solution a fiber and aplasticizer “Porolit-LP”. This plasticizer increases the service life of a concrete in the open air, due to the fact that it does not saturate them with a water from precipitations. Accordingly, the number of cycles of freezing, which it maintains significantly increases. I will use again “Giperdesmo” in two layers with the sand and will lay the floor tiles.

But there are still plans that frosts can violate. Now, the forecast is Ok., and then we will see ...
At the same time, I cut the lawn for winter, pruned the trees and collected a cauliflower, which stood at 5 degrees below zero!
On Saturday, we made a coupler on the terrace.
1. We put up lighthouses and covered the perimeter by the board.
2. We filled a part, then rested a little bit and refiled.
The solution was made in the same proportion:
1 bucket of cement M400 (a half of a sack).
3.5 buckets of a river sand.
6 grams of “Porolit” (a plasticizer).
1 microfiber (a calculation of 0.9 kg per 1 cubic meter of solution).
the water was looked at a plasticity.

We decided not to reinforce with rids, I believe that 22 mm OSB will not get out, moreover I will lay tiles.
Fibers were added last in the insolution, then we stirred for 2-3 minutes in the mixer. The distribution of fibers in the amount is staggering!