The lake house in the country.

[bill]

It is not clear for me. Did you make a ventilation from the sewers (pipes).?. Isn’t rough?.

[constructor]

This is a separate channel of the ventilation of the cellar, it is coming under the house in transit to the roof of the house. The draugh is so high that knocks down despite of the kinks, and changes of the trajectory ... an excellent choice!! in principle! And what is a rough?. But I will do a ventilation of the house 125 for the ventilation.
I have a third pipe on the roof under that deal - Vilpe.
Now, I am in a creative search for the best route for it.

[bill]

A static, a flammability. It is not rough!!. I'll make a galvanized batten, likely. It is generally not connected. A channel riser can be made of plastic. And with a mechanical ventilation the fire will be smashed with a great speed and even in a fuel material. I think so. Especially, since the price is not so much.

[constructor]

I think that I have enough natural with a head, and I will do it of galvanized steel, anyone!. Just I haven’t delved yet...
A riser I will be perfectly vertical from top to bottom (in the pipe on the roof with a visor to increase the traction) and it will be 3 inputs with a sharp angle - from a kitchen, a bathroom and a first floor with a bathroom on the second floor. I am sure it will pull without any questions!.
But everything must be thoroughly warmed on the second floor, and especially in the attic.

[bill]

I understood everything that you didn’t make a ventilation and you have channel and cellar risers. I have just thought that you have already begun the ventilation facilities...
About ventilation. I think a natural ventilation is not enough. Because the house is often no more than 7-8 meters. And a drop of ventilation in general is 4 meters. Naturally, there nothing will work. And the hood is in the closet and dragged all smells up to the kitchen / the living room. You should to separate the overall riser at a minimum. And to make separate a bathroom and a kitchen.

[constructor]

The height of the whole riser of ventilation will be just 4 meters. I have posted a sketch in miniature.
I'll do a ventilation without fans at first. I will put cables, of course. If it does not work or I do not like it, then I will put in the attic a channel fan with an adjustable speed and let him pull itself. But I think it is unlikely it will need us... We finished with a wool!.
But We didn’t tighten everything with a vapor barrier, It was ended easy, but it does not matter.
We will buyit again and will trim!.
Remained not warmed a couple of pieces: a piece of the ceiling near the shield, we will re warm it when we connect all the cables in the panel.
But everything is great!. More comments about the vapor barrier: I took a familiar roll of a vapor barrier called Technonikol 90. And the conclusion – it is a bullshit!. The film is bad. Very soft, breaks easily. With a Yutafol it is not any comparison!. I dragged an unheated porch with it and that is all. I'll buy a Yutafol 110.
I soldered metal pipes in the room on the ground floor on places to the outlet. A soldering acid, a solder, a soldering iron for 80 watts. Everything that is needed for this. I soldered very carefully, so, as not to overheat the hose inside the cable!.
We stuffed the crate under the batten and mortgages for TV, heaters and conditioner. The baten is a 20 x 40 rack.
Under the mortgage I took the remnants of the timber imitation from the terrace.
The installation seams of windows I pasted in addition with an aluminum steamproof tape directly to the vapor barrier walls. So, it is reliable.

[baltazar]

Constructor, tell us about the inner sealing foil of the window slopes. I see a foil there, is it stucked to a plastic window?. The topic is just SUPER!. I have read it for one evening at one go!. Sign up now!.

[constructor]

The internal "seal" of the slopes is made according to the principles of slope "Illbrook-assembly" with a quarter for a wet slope. And then on top of the tape with a butyl rubber strip is glued an aluminum tape “Yutafol” - one side is to the window frame and the second side is on the vapor barrier.
That's the whole principle. Look at the illbruk-assembly in pictures in the internet and you will be clear!.
We passed the old house for demolishing destroyers. The process has started. Well, finally we started to beat the batten in the room on the first floor.
The batten is crooked, and we had a lot of troubles on the ceiling, just wha is a horror!!

[baltazar]

Futher, It is going fun. Whether you are doing with a siding or a film and the insulation, it lookes like the process goes on place. But when all the preparations is completed, ONCE and it is immediately visible a result. Although, once, of coursem it is only JUST for the uninitiated people.
Good luck in building. I’m waitng for continuing.

[Summer]

Tell me, please is it specifically that you trim a part of the walls along and across? But why?.

[constructor]

It was intended so!. The purpose is a visual extension of the room into the interior from the front door.
And in terms of appearance, so it will definitely more fun!.
Yeah, about the results you are absolutely right, it can be seen just now, and before this were million shades and a fuss. Nevertheless, you must consider in advance.
Although it isn’t also easy with the
finish.

[constructor]

We finished with a batten in the room on the ground floor.
But as it is true, there are no corners and baseboards for the places of internal and external corners, so, there is not a complete finish.
Materials for ground loops and the interior doors are waiting for their hour!. The old house is still apart.
It is almost a log frame. And there is a beauty winter outside!.

[buldozer]

A very decent appearance on the first floor. How do you soak the batten?. Well, the winter is nice.

[constructor]

Then, as time, it is more simple – a Tikkurila Bar, half-matt. And there will be a good batten!. Oh how to say ... instead of internal doors – a wrap!.
We heat only one room 10.5 sqm On the energy consumption – a convector of 1 kW on average for two days, consumes about 0.75 kW / h. It is based on a heating with 2 degrees at the start to 23 degrees.
The temperature is measured by the sensor at a height of 1.8 meters above floor level.
The flow rate is about 1.1 dollars for two days.
When we put the doors and heart the entire first floor, so then it will be something to tell you about a sane and heating costs in this particular house.

[Summer]

And is this varnish is opposed to UV

[constructor]

Yes. It has special additives. The answer to this question it is easy to find in the internet ... by typing the name in google ...
That were happy winter holidays!.
I wish you a Happy New Year and a Merry Christmas!!.May you dreams come true, guys!!.
At the winter holidays, as usual, we didn’t do anything.
We had a cool rest!. We looked at New Cone in Khreshchatyk.
Yesterdaym we finally come to pass the installation of the interior doors!.
Doors: Terminus. The Ukrainian production. The foundation is a box. a pine timber.
Panels: MDF. A clypeus: MDF. A furnish: an oak veneer.
Findings: Apecs Premier, an old bronze.

I decided not to put the door by myself - a lot of hassle, a lot of time, you need the special tools, and skills!.
I surrendered into the hands of installers!. For 6 doors it took the whole day, from 9 am to 7 pm!. We worked third. But the men did everything very carefully and nice. Every cut, every groove ... Overall, I was pleased. There is certainly little nuances with a foam, but something ... By the way, door openings I've done too high about 2100 millimetres.
We had to make 2050 millimetres. I tempered at one time!.
Now, it will be an extra confusion with a big hole above the door!.
We haven’t fix the platbands yet, since no wall finishing.
They are fixed after the installation of lining and varnishing.
Now the slides.
We stuffed the baguettes today (ceiling moldings) for all interior angles in the room on the ground floor.
I installed a plinth.
The appearance of lining has positively changed, in my humble opinion!!.
It remains to fill the outer corners at window openings, go on places with a coating and joints, so. you can move on to varnishing!.
Moldings and baseboards are made of pine, in general, like everything else.